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Deegee

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About Deegee

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  • Location
    Côte D’Essex
  • Interests
    Anything I can eat, drink or ride.
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. Find out how to remove the group head seal, if the portafilter is difficult to lock in empty (with no coffee in basket) you’ve probably got either water and/or coffee grounds between the group seal and the group head, it pushes the seal down and makes the portafilter lock up early or difficult to lock at all. Take the opportunity to change to the blue Cafelat silicone seal if you don’t already have one fitted, much better than the black rubber part, btw the old seal might come out in bits if it’s really old.
  2. 1, @MRH1962 The standard shower screen is fine, I’ve had no issues at all when using my GC Pro, the standard rubber group seal is stiffer than the blue Cafelat part and I personally prefer the “feel” the silicone seal gives, there was no significant benefit other than that though, a side benefit is that the rubber hardens with temp and time, the silicone doesn’t. 2, I use the Puly-Caff sachets Gaggia UK enclosed with the machine to clean the group head, portafilter and basket etc, rancid coffee oil isn’t a great taste enhancer fwiw. Re descaler, I use the Gaggia stuff, it’s not expensive,
  3. I don’t know diddly about Izzos, but I know a little about taking things apart that want to stay put, if you or friends/family have got access to any tooling, try and use a ring type crows foot, open ended spanner’s are the last resort, and tbh adjustables are to be avoided if you possibly can. If you were nearer and times were different I’d offer a hand and the relevant tooling. This is what I mean. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401636757281
  4. @Gauthier I think you might have one or more of these problems. 1, The steam valve is faulty, I think this is obvious, it needs stripping and repairing or replacing. 2, As @larkim says you might have a “brew” thermostat faulty (107°) that is causing overheating, which in turn causes water/steam pressure to build which exhausts out of the OPV. 3, The max pressure valve (OPV) appears to be leaking, possibly due to either limescale/boiler corrosion internally, the black bits you see stuck in the steam nozzle could be pieces of aluminium oxide from inside the boiler. 4, The puf
  5. Hi there @Gauthier, firstly your steam valve can be repaired so it stops dripping, one of the members here>> @FairRecycler, runs a repair service for those valves, contact him and he’ll help if he can. Secondly, I’m guessing you have the Gaggia panerello attachment on the end of the steam wand, have you taken it apart and cleaned it? The larger nozzle part has a removable inner section, it’s difficult to remove, but if push the inner part from the milk end onto a work surface it should loosen and be removed from the top. It can get very dirty and unhygienic if it isn’t stripped and
  6. Sounds like getting a bag from the local coffee shop is a winner, they should (hopefully) be de-gassed and ready to go! When I had the MM a month back my Specialita was set @ 14.5 for a 19g dose, so not a long way from where you are adjustment-wise, but it was very fine, any coarser and it was a gusher, tbh I was concerned about puck fracture, but it worked out ok and was one of the best I’ve had in milk.
  7. If the OPV had jammed, the pressure would be all over the place depending on if it had jammed open/close/partially open, if you get a nice progressive pressure rise when you begin the shot it’s probably fine. When i said new, I meant new to you, as in unfamiliar, I didn’t know how long you’d had any of the kit but the tone of the thread gave me the impression you’d recently upgraded your kit, my bad if not. 🤭
  8. @pandabear Yes I meant back flushing, just to check if the OPV etc hadn’t jammed or something odd that could happen on a new machine. If you think there’s a possibility it’s a weird bean, I’d go back back to a “control” bean, something that you know and have used frequently in the past, we’ve all got our favourites that we know fairly well, choose something like that and try again, my own experience with espresso success is you need to change variables into known factors and you’re dealing with 3 variables, new machine, new grinder and new bean, I’d try and make at least one of those a kn
  9. I’m running a Specialita, so a little different but no dramatic changes, my zero point is exactly where yours is, but the only bean I’ve had to grind where your machine is set was Raves Monsoon Malabar - which as a bean seems to break several norms, mines currently set at approx 1.3, (Blackcat Twilight) and runs a 27s shot, don’t if that helps or is completely irrelevant to your issue. I noticed someone asked about the brew pressure earlier in the thread, is that definitely 9-10bar using a blind basket?
  10. Normally you’d leave them in the bag they came in still sealed in a cool dark place to de-gas, the bags usually have a small one way valve so the CO2 can get out without inflating or stressing the bag, I’d leave them in the vac canister, but don’t lock the lid on too tight, if you’ve got other beans you’ve had for a couple of weeks I’d use those until these ones are ready. It’s usual to buy and have beans stored and de-gassing in advance, then seal the valve and store them in a freezer until you want them, opinions differ on using freezers, but if they’re sealed airtight they’re normally
  11. I can drive a Lathe, but don’t have one, coincidentally I was lamenting this very fact yesterday to MrsG, as I fancied making a better steam tip for my GC Pro. It looks like it’ll want either hand forming and polishing or it’ll need a form tool for the outer radius, is it carbon steel that’s been machined then chromed or stainless? Odd to see cracking like that in either.
  12. @staggerlee011 you mentioned the coffee you’re using arrived yesterday and @Cooffeasked about the roast date that should be on the packet, normally roasters send coffee out within 48hrs of roasting, but it needs time to de-gas, that means the CO2 has to dissipate from the beans before you should use them, normally 10-14 days. If you use beans straight from the roaster it’s common to get very sour/acidic shots that appear to “bubble” or froth coming out of the portafilter. Not sure if you knew all this, so please feel free to ignore me if you did.
  13. @staggerlee011 If that’s the larger of the two regular baskets that came with the machine it’s normally a 14g basket, that won’t help reduce the time to run a shot, but might be something to remember in the future. Place a 5p on the compressed puck, lock the portafilter into the machine, then remove it without touching any of the switches, the 5p shouldn’t leave an imprint on the dry coffee puck, if it does you’re using too much coffee in the basket. Re the length of shot, I’d definitely grind finer. Good luck and welcome to the forum btw.
  14. Very fond of a quiche, that looks very tasty!
  15. @Michael87 Gaggia North America state boiler capacity as 3.5Fl oz (105ml) so not big at all, but faster than 250ml I’d imagine. @Beanbag I’m not sure where you are, but you might want to look at the Isomac located in London in the Sales section, the Pro is £400 plus any extras, the Isomac is £500, it’s a HX iirc but will probably be better than either the Anna or the Pro.
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