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About flyboy320

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  1. The WiFi switch idea came from MrShades and he wrote about it in this post. I used a slightly different WiFi switch which I got off Amazon (bought a bunch of them since they are great for use with other things like turning on/off plugged in house lights, etc. The timer took some time to figure out, but once I did it's actually quite simple. I bought the Arduino Uno, the LCD, and battery holder with switch off Amazon. Now that I have it all running, I could probably use the smaller Arduino boards like the Mini and also a smaller screen like the smaller OLED ones. The trigger for the Arduino to start the timer is the brew switch itself. In my version of the GCP, the brew switch is a DPST type and only one set of contacts were being used, the other two were not connected to anything. So I used the unused side of the brew switch and wired that into the Arduino so it detects when this switch is in a closed position, which starts the timer. I have the Arduino powered by a battery holder with a 9 volt battery and just turn it on when I am using the machine. All this sits behind the machine out of the way, but if I like it I may in the future buy one of the smaller boards and place it inside and power it off the Gaggia's rear power outlet, but for now it works a treat!
  2. It wasn't that bad to wrap, but it did take some time as I've never wrapped anything before. I watched this youtube video for some guidance. I used Avery's satin pearl white wrap I bought at a place not too far from me. Avery is supposed to be one of the easier wraps to use as a beginner, and I used one piece to cover the machine so there are no seams. The material has lots of stretch to it so it's easy to wrap around corners, you just have to take your time.
  3. I know, if I was more patient I would have thought about it more and ordered everything at once (OPV PID and drip tray)!
  4. Did the PID and OPV mod a few weeks ago. Nice and easy to follow the great instructions, and for the PID, just a couple little differences in the front wiring panel on my Canadian model, but easy enough to sort out. I mounted it at the back so it's more out of the way since it's not something I need to see all the time. I also added a wifi switch inside the machine so it turns on and off at set times (or I can use Alexa to turn it on and off). Also just finished adding an Arduino with an LCD screen to time the shot. It hooks into the front brew switch to know when the pump is turned on, so it starts and stops whenever the brew switch is turned on/off. Oh, and I wrapped the stainless in an automotive wrap since I prefer the white look! Thanks MrShades for the mods
  5. I did it last week and it's working great. Even with your PID mod there was still enough room to place the switch inside the machine and now I have it programmed to come on/off when I want and also the ability to just ask Alexa to turn the machine on/off as well.
  6. I have a 2020 N.A. model and the switch is a rocker switch (not a momentary switch). I have a couple of the Sonoff devices kicking around and would like to try this mod out. Is it possible to wire this similar to the way you did in your first post? I assume I could just tap off the rear power live and rear power neutral and just leave the front power switch left ON?
  7. I'm measuring the temperature as water exits the group head without the portafilter using a Thermapen. I hold the Thermapen so the "business end" is catching the water just as it exits the group head which would be the temperature of the water as it first hit the puck when pulling a shot. This way I have a good idea what value Psb should be so the displayed temp on the PID is the same as the group head temperature.
  8. No I'm trying to measure the temperature just as the water exits the group head so I know the water temperature as if it would just first hit the ground coffee during a shot. It's this difference I want to set in the PID (Psb setting) so the displayed/set PID Sv is actually what the brew temperature is.
  9. Thanks very much for the great information phario Looking at the Water Brewing Temp vs Set Temp graph, I get a temperature offset from the brewing temp and set temp to be 24f which is what I'm measuring as an offset using my thermopen as compared to the PID reading, so maybe I'm not that far off from being correct after all.
  10. I have MrShades PID kit on my 2020 Classic Pro, and in his instructions he recommends and offset (Psb) of 14.4f. If I measure the water temperature when it comes out the brew head, I need an offset of 26f to get the PID reading to match the brew head temperature. I am using a Thermapen to measure the temperature so it may be not 100% accurate, but I seem to come up with an awfully large Psb compared to what's recommended. I know the thermocouple is measuring the boiler wall temperature and there is heat loss from the boiler wall to when the water exits the brew head, but just trying to get an idea of what everyone else is setting the offset to?
  11. I'm slated for July delivery as well. Anyone in the same boat heard anything yet on delivery updates?
  12. I know you posted this a little over a month ago and have probably figured it out, but that's the clip that goes in the black steam knob. It holds the knob tight over the steam valve shaft.
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