Jump to content

AJP80

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

82 Excellent

About AJP80

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Your Profile

  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    Cycling, coffee, the Great Outdoors

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I like to check what comes out of the Osmio, so I know what to add. Also, Calcium Citrate can take hours to dissolve, longer in the winter, so I like to check its progress using the TDS meter. None of this is essential, I agree, but it’s become part of my routine - I was just a little surprised by the high readings the Apera was giving and I read around and ended up posting here as I didn’t know how to programme it to work in a similar way to other TDS meters which seem to come off the shelf programmed to give a CaCO3 equivalent reading.
  2. Hi Mark, what I’m looking for from the Apera is a conductivity to CaCO3 conversion. It’s for measuring output from the Osmio (which adds Ca and Mg) and for testing after I’ve added Calcium Citrate and Magnesium Sulphate. So whilst 5 to 10 ppm TDS will be random ions from the tap water that made it through the Osmio, everything else (140ppm) will be Ca and Mg. Not perfect, but good enough.
  3. Ok so I think I am going to go with 0.43. Reason being that the oft quoted conversion factor for NaCl is 0.5, and for a given weight, CaCO3 is 1.16 times more conductive than NaCl.
  4. Hi all, hopefully someone can help with a water related question. Over The last year I’ve been tracking the TDS of my brew water on a daily basis using a TDS meter that came with my Zero Water jug, and sense checking this once a month or so with a drop kit. The battery in the TDS meter just died and I replaced the meter with a fancy one from Apera, which lets you programme certain parameters, including the EC to TDS conversion factor. Can anyone tell me what the conversion factor should be to get a standard PPM reading for water (CaCO3 equiv)? The default setting on the Apera is
  5. Yeah the lever’s on correctly. Another thing to check is that the brass piston thingy it’s screwed tightly onto the shaft. It can unscrew on reassembly if you twist the shaft anti-clockwise to align up it with the lever bolts (it’s happened to me a few times). If the piston unscrews it sits lower and may not clear the hole to the boiler when the lever is fully lifted.
  6. Is it possible that the lever arm (rather the bit it screws into) is upside down? The bolt that goes through the piston (the one closer to you when standing in front of the machine) should be below the pivot bolt (the one that’s further away and goes through the group head).
  7. Recently I’ve reverted to the Hoffman bloom + two pours. The first pour following the bloom is reasonably aggressive but not excessively so. That gets me to about 60% total water poured and nearly fills the 1 cup V60. For the remainder I pour very gently, low drop and slowly, straight down the middle (second pour). This unfortunately creates a narrow but deep hole in the centre of the bed, which I guess is sub-optimum. This is with the EKG
  8. Hi Mark - I’d be grateful for any tips to help avoid the trough, when pouring straight down the middle. I’ve tried pouring super slowly (1.5ml/s) and very low but always end up with a deep hole (over an inch, this morning).
  9. Looking forward to it! Until then, see you on Zwift (once my turbo leaves the depot in Boreham Wood).
  10. Looks fantastic, fella. V. jealous. Lots of new arrivals! sadly, for lockdown 2, I invested in a turbo trainer, so no new shiny coffee equipment for me for some time.
  11. I think that without the eyes of the bunch on us to keep us in check, it’s quite easy to throw ones (expensive) toys out the cot. I remember being in a great position on the last lap going up the Hog, feeling strong and in contention for a podium place, until the guy in front veered off his line taking both of us into the grass. Race over, I just shrugged. He was apologetic, which helped. Had I been alone in the privacy of my front room, my reaction would have been very different, I’m sure (albeit not directed at the rider responsible) - I still have old, beaten and battered Xbox controllers f
  12. Not really. Your alkalinity is pretty low at 16ppm so if you want to hit say 60ppm just scale down the prescribed dose of bicarbonate by 25%. In fact, it’s easier than that as people have produced and published spreadsheets that will do the scaling for you, if you input your starting point (e.g. 16ppm).
  13. Maybe a couple of bottles of light mineral water like Bezoya or similar and scale down the amount of TWW sachet. E.g. if the TDS of your mineral water is 30ppm, then use 4/5 (1.2g) of the sachet. But be quick as it takes a good few hours for the calcium citrate to dissolve, fully.
  14. From my experience of different Sage machines that use this filter, they estimate filter life based on water hardness in your area, which is inputted by the user. For this purpose, the machines I’ve used come with a colour changing strip for dipping in a sample of tap water. Does that sound familiar? There should be a step in the machine set up process that allows for this input. If that is set up properly (and it might be as you say you live in a hard water area), then a cost efficient solution may be to switch to a separate water filter e.g. an Osmio r.o. machine (high initial outlay bu
  15. I can recommend Machina Espresso. I found them really helpful when I bought a new grinder, recently, and I’ve drank a lot of their freshly roasted coffee (for filter) and it was top draw.
×
×
  • Create New...