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About allikat

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  1. Here's two linked ones I'll throw in: Most boutique roasters stick with a light and medium roast, why do you think that is? Do they only buy beans that fit their preferred roast profiles? And second, which is your most Italian-ish dark-ish roast? I've not gotten on with lighter side roasts myself, I prefer something on the darker side of medium out to a dark roast.
  2. I go black with sweeteners, as my extractions and skills improve, I've been cutting back on sweeteners slowly.
  3. It should be ok, but maybe try a few different brands of preground until you get a good grinder. Check the manual, see if there's a thing you need to put in under the pressurised filter, and check it's there.
  4. allikat


    If the brew stat has failed, it usually fails closed, so it'll heat up until the thermal fuse blows. Remove the brew thermostat, check it's marked 107c, if it's the correct one, then it has died. Buy new ones, they're about a fiver each, and well worth replacing if they haven't been swapped out for a few years.
  5. Yes, the internals are made by Eureka. But the exterior design is 100% Rocket, and the different chute means it'll perform slightly differently... And you get the easy cleaning without losing grind settings too.
  6. With a snip for brevity... Switching out a metal gear for a plastic one because the plastic one gives up under the torque.. ye gods, that doesn't make it better, it makes it just all fail at once. That whole gearbox should have been metal and the grinder would be amazing! It's a wonderful design, but they just cut costs too far. I'm pretty sure every single one of the people who bought one would happily pay another £100 for their grinder to have more metal and less cost cutting. Then their grinder would last a decade or more.
  7. You just need to be active for a while. I admit, I keep looking at the Faustino, even knowing it's a Mignon in a fancy outfit, it's still a wonderful looking grinder.
  8. The Case steel can be hard to cut, and doing it neatly with hand tools will be a fight and a half to do. But if you can do it right, it'll be fine. There's plenty of metal there so as long as you don't make it too deep a cutout, probably well worth it.
  9. An excellent choice. I am sure you will be extremely happy for many years to come.
  10. Bad batches happen in electronics, and if the manufacturer's batch tests don't catch that it goes out of spec in this use case, it'll pass and ship to the company.
  11. Especially when buying from coffee italia... should you ever be sufficiently daft as to do that...
  12. Bargain basement options that are ok : Lelit Fred, Iberital MC2 and other 38-40mm conical burr machines, these come in around £150 or so. They will do for now, and can do an espresso grind reliably, but you may well find them limited when you get experience. Better options (but it costs more): Eureka Mignon Facile/Manuale, Mignon Specialita, Compak K3 touch, Rocket Faustino, Niche Zero. These and many others start at around £250 and go to around £500 or so.
  13. If you can hear the pump working when you push the switch for coffee, then it's definitely the case as HDAV says, if you don't hear the pump then the pump has died.
  14. The thing between some of the really early Classics is that they had varying boiler powers. To be honest, a hundred watts here or there doesn't make a real difference you'd notice without a head to head comparison, and it's only a second or two in terms of getting up to steam temperature anyway. With the supply of older machines being so expensive anyway, just pick up what you can get, be it a used Pro, or an old machine. So long as it's not a 2015-2018 model, you're pretty well golden as any issues with either are reasonably easy to fix.
  15. Ensure it gets up to temperature so you have maximum working pressure in the boiler. This means fill it, and leave it alone for half an hour, then try to pull a shot, or backflush, either works. Look for drips or steam escaping from around the join, you'll need the lid off to do that, so be very careful of the live wiring, no fingers inside the case at this point. If you see nothing, and everything works, including the 3 way solenoid, then you're good.
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