Jump to content

allikat

Members
  • Content Count

    348
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

132 Excellent

About allikat

  • Other groups Active
  • Rank
    Senior Member

Your Profile

  • Location
    WSM
  • Interests
    Techie
  • Occupation
    Lorry driver
  • Twitter Account
    none

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah, it should not be doing that at all. The lid and upper burr carrier should be pretty well solid. Are the threads OK? Are the 3 bolts behind the upper burr tightened down FIRMLY and to a roughly even pressure? If the answer to the above are all yes, then the previous owner sold it for a reason, and that reason is probably that it's badly worn and something expensive like either the upper burr carrier or the part that screws into need replacing, which are either expensive, a lot of work, or both.
  2. Ok, the only real difference between 240v and 110v Gaggias is the way the boiler is wired pretty much I believe. The elements would be in parallel in the US and they're in series here. To install an LED you need a source of 3-5v, which would come from a voltage converter from your main AC supply. You'd run the input for the converter from the output of the main power switch so that the lights will come on when the machine is on. That would mean removing the current crimped on blade connectors and re-crimping with either both wires, or new wires to a junction box that splits the supply to both the rest of the machine and the lights together. Of course you'd make that all very well insulated (and I don't mean tape), and sealed as much as possible against heat and steam. Things you need to take care of: 1:Input voltage of the converter. Should be easy enough, find one that takes 110-120v 2: Output voltage of the converter. Depending on how many LEDs you plan on installing. Each LED will want around 2.5v, so a 5v supply will do 2 if you put them in series (IE wiring goes as one wire from supply to one side of LED1, then from other side of LED1 to in side of LED2 then from out side of LED 2 back to the supply). 3: Output current of the converter: Should be nice and low, 20-50mA is perfect for 2 LEDs, it should be current limited to prevent LEDs dying. Under-running your LEDs is fine, they'll be a little dimmer than they could be, but will last a lot longer like that. Suggestion: Go watch some videos by Big Clive on the subject of making LED lights. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtM5z2gkrGRuWd0JQMx76qA
  3. Interesting results, maybe the de-clumper was too restrictive in your grinder?
  4. Could be that you need to align the burrs a little. The principle is the same as those videos on doing it for those big Mahlkonigs, tin foil and white board pens. Tho it's more annoying to do with the Compak design.
  5. It is, pressurised is vastly easier. But you get out what you put in. That ease of use removes the depth of flavour, but it is super-convenient.
  6. Yeah, given water is 1ml per gram, it does make replicating things. take 65ml of water, add 25g of citric acid and 10g of lactic acid. Solution should then weigh 100g. Of course, that's then the concentrate made so assuming that it's used one bottle per litre, you could add the same amounts of acids to a litre of water if you want to do it that way around and start the decal with an emptied tank.
  7. If it's at all like the older Gaggias, the lights come on when they're heating. Wait till it's just gone off and go for it with the steaming.
  8. I'd like to put forwards the suggestion of: Whatever you do, do NOT get rid of the Pavoni. Keep it. Some day the kids will find their way out of the house, and you can then bring it back into service for your own needs.
  9. 99% sure it's the grinder. I did look at the GXV2 when I was looking for a grinder, and then I saw the burrs and walked away. They're the lowest of the low end of burr grinders with big breaker blocks that smash the beans to pieces before a small grinding surface completes the task. If you get it fine enough for espresso, you'll end up with lots of super-fine dust known as fines, which either block up holes in the basket or end up in your cup. The grinder is fine for everything except espresso or turkish. It's not great for the other brew methods, but it's adequate. Any reviews you've seen for it being "good for espresso" are from people using Delonghis and similar machines with pressurised portafilters. For now, if you still have the double wall basket and little nub, you could go courser and use that. This will get you some semi-fake crema and will get you by with some drinkable coffee. Then it's sadly time to buy a grinder that costs as much as the machine if you want real espresso.
  10. These grinders, and yes, it is an identical design to the K6, are very sensitive to getting the upper burr carrier precisely in position. I am totally unsure how, but it appears you can almost get the upper carrier into the threads wrongly without visibly cross threading it... What I did was fill the area where the circular spring sits with grease, then tighten it down firmly before reinstalling the upper burr. That seems to have pretty much solved the same issue with my K6. I was having lots of trouble with the burrs touching before I got a good espresso grind, and it was the parts behind the burrs being a little loose that did it.
  11. The Wilfa is not good enough for Espresso. It's a grinder designed for drip/french press etc. But it is really very good for those brew methods.
  12. If it's anything like the K6, then the top burr has a sprung mount to the upper burr carrier. This has probably come loose. Remove the upper burr carrier from the grinder, and remove the top burr. Underneath that will be 3 bolts that you should tighten up. Then reassemble and try. I had this exact issue with my K6 as I'd loosened that part to reduce the resistance of adjustments. The real fix was to strip the upper burr carrier, grease it well with food safe grease, and tighten it up firmly. Oddly enough that also brought my burrs into better alignment too.
  13. It depends on how much steam you see when you flush. When my thermostat was on the way out, I'd get steam nozzle (or hot E61) type steam jets during a flush for a moment before it cooled. Just some steam from the near boiling water is fine, it's a matter of magnitude really. Do be warned that if it is on the way out, it can be a very quick step from "A bit hot" to "Doing 4-6-2 Pacific impressions", at which point replacing the thermostat is a required thing. Mine did that transition in under 2 days of use.
  14. Certainly some of them will. Check the options in the ordering pages.
×
×
  • Create New...