Jump to content

FairRecycler

Members
  • Content Count

    136
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

63 Excellent

About FairRecycler

  • Rank
    Portafilter pro

Your Profile

  • Location
    Loughborough
  • Interests
    Coffee, Engineering, Vintage, Home audio, cycling
  • Occupation
    Full time GAGGIA Classic engineer / developer
  • Twitter Account
    Iaintgotone

Recent Profile Visitors

601 profile views
  1. Good ideas. I haven't faced such a challenge before, but I managed to get out broken M5 brass stud by tapping a Philips screw driver in the stud, creating a Philips "head" stud. Good job it's not stainless 🤣 I don't want to be the critical one but than the top half isn't insulated. Of the choices mentioned so far I prefer the red insulated butt connector.
  2. Pls stop buying more new staff, most of these repairable or available used (tried and good quality) I now how it feels. I've just posted the first two BoostBox-ed Classics this week. I've sold them more than 3 weeks ago, and they were ready to ship at that time (at least that's what I thought). Anything I touched, went close to or I looked at, or even thought of just broke. I recommend to just walk away. I couldn't and I nearly fall into pieces.
  3. If you send me the wiring, I'm happy to include a used but tested one in the return package.
  4. The thermostats are the wrong way round. The 145-15 is the steam stat should be at the top The 107-8 is the brew and should be at the bottom
  5. The wiring looks fine to me. By luke warm do you mean room temp or slightly warmer? Try it in steam mode too, that would bypass the brew thermostat. What I normally do is to turn it on for a few seconds, than unplug the machine and carefully touch both heating elements to confirm both works fine. On the other hand I would not recommend to use the machine as it is. For me it hurts to look at those non insulated connectors especially at the stick out where its over the boiler body only few mm apart from it. It is dangerous. Have you gone for a new switch? Or is it s
  6. Hi, @Agentb Thank you for mentioning me here. Sorry for the late response, I don't get notifications anymore @Saffrican If you not sorted it yet, I'm happy to provide you with the parts needed, but if you need the connector too I only have used ones, so it will involve some soldering/re-crimping. I'm also happy to repair it it for you, if you would rather go that route. Regards Peter
  7. The bottomless portafilter not included, it comes with the original portafilter.
  8. I can't upload any photos of the PID mounting due to server error Will follow soon.
  9. Just in case anyone interested, I've picked up a 2 year old very well looked after example of Classic Pro with MrShades PID and over pressure valve (for adjustable brew pressure) installed, these costs £150 new. I'll give it a quick clean and list it on eBay for £400+£37.50 fully covered 24hrs postage later on tonight. I'm happy to give it away for £415 her if paid via bank transfer or PayPal friends and family. It comes with all the original accessories (single and double non pressurised and a pressurised double filter basket, original portafilter, mains lead and GAGGIA CD, in
  10. Hi, @phario thanks for mentioning me here. @Mulligrub The thickness is the same 1.2mm but pre 2009 models (from Italy) are made of a better stainless steel. It is much more sturdy than the Romanian built ones. On the other hand the newer ones are magnetisable, that comes handy if you have a magnetic stopwatch Cheap holesaws will give up half way through, even if the manufacturer mentions stainless steel in the description. I would highly recommend a hole punch (around £20 online, depending on the diameter), but you will still need a decent 1/2 ratchet or would rather
  11. @glynnder Have you replaced the cylindrical resistor to the dummy one I've provided? @allikat I'm sure it's only depends on the wiring. Believe it or not some of my rebuilt machines worked the other way round, however I've never found out what's causing the inverted behaviour.
  12. Depends on you really, I've part exchanged, brand new dead classic, after the owner attempted to install a PID and blown both the machine and the PID, but it is doable. You have the best chance with @MrShades PID kit. It has a perfectly detailed instruction. If you do it first time and has no relevant experiences, I would estimate a good full day on installation of PID and pressure gauge thought. I think both the Mara X and the ECM worth the abuse LOL I sell fully rebuilt classics with warranty for £200, so £175 for a used one (even if it looks perfect from the outside) doesn't
  13. Hi, PID is around £100, pressure gauge starting from £25, Rancilio wand around £15. These are prices if you installing them on your own. I build and upgrade classics, if you provide the machine it would cost around £200 including fully covered 48hrs postage. Kind regards Peter
  14. Thanks. Would mind sharing your preferred design please? Thank you
  15. Thank you @sokoma Yes as others mentioned above, it is a good idea indeed. However this will be released as it is, as I believe it is a great thing on its own, saving people drilling out their case and sticking PID's to the sidewall. Probably there will be an additional pressure controller designed to fit this kit, at a later point as an upgrade (there is a working PWM control board in one of the draws, requiring some testing/tuning frequency wise). What principles your controller based on?
×
×
  • Create New...