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About Kamtsa

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    Green Bean

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    overhauling run down, cheap Gaggia Classics and now Le'Lit Combi
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    Office job in Finance

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  1. Sorry to add thread noise - trying to get @MrShades attention. [I had PM'd you a few days ago, but unsure if you got that, or if I got greyed for violating forum rules].
  2. Sorry if 'gross' came over as overly negative. I meant to say that some of the photos in this thread had some aesthetic... differences... to what'd you get from a semi-industrial Baker in, say, Northern Germany. Many of my creations look odd in some way or the other. Good to see that I'm not heading for an upset stomach or something by eating sourdough bread where some areas look glibbery, moist or bubbly. Have never thought about eating uncooked sourdough - maybe it falls more into fermented food like kimchi or sauerkraut, rather than 'spoilt' as I had in mind? Need to look up eating raw sour dough next. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
  3. I'm probably outing myself as a barbarian, but here it goes: what do you guys do with your 'failed' bakes when learning or trying something new? Some of the 'failed' posted pictures in this thread do look gross, but is it safe to eat it? I had my fair share of less-than-stellar outcomes when playing around with pure rye sourdough in the last months. But given how hard good rye flour is to come by in Australia, and by pure desperation, I ended up still eating my misfits if the taste was at least acceptable. Is that a bad idea for health reasons? Also, maybe it is an overreaction after years of sponghy supermarket breads: I like to use the entire (rye) flour for my bread in the sourdough, instead of adding in larger portions of flour just before. I do like the very sour resulting taste for the moment, and maybe this helps with not adding any 'anxiety yeast' to force raising. Does anyone do this as well, or is my bread way too sour for regular tastes, like wife and kid? (we will back in Europe for the next weeks, introducing the kid to on all kinds of my culinary memories )
  4. If you got a few minutes at hand, and since you presumably have some interest in tinkering by having a multimeter: the Gaggia Classic has a really simple set-up, perfect for a DIY job. Sorry for the following lengthy post; if you were after a pin point diagnosis there are many experts here who can tell you for sure what the issue most likely is. Just I wish someone would have told me 10 years ago how simple that machine really is designed, and to just get on with it and (safely) fix it step by step by myself. If you use ashcroc's wiring diagram (and disregard and wire colour) it will be easy to re-assemble your machine step by step. You should be able to get water pumped out of the group head by focussing only on that subpart of the machine doing this (e.g. you could temporarily disconnect the heating elements, the U-shaped things on side of boiler. Also note to keep pump run time to only a few seconds ~ <30secs at a time with a minute or more of rest while testing things out - it is easy to get lost in process and overheat pump). You wrote you have already found out that the power light (the left black/white circle marked "2" in the wiring diagram) reacts to the power switch marked as one (on/off switch on your machine). You could also confirm that the heating elements (when connected) heat up rapidly only and only if you switch that switch on. Then you've written, that with some tinkering you got the pump to react to the "brew" switch, marked as "9" in the wiring diagram. And that you got the pump to work, but didn't see water coming out of group head. That does sound that all _electrics_ required for the pump are working ok - does that sound like it? If that would be my machine I would next try to establish whether the problem sits with mixed up cabling (e.g. your machine inadvertently has something like the steam directly connected to the brew switch, but that should be very unlikely given the cable set-up. It is easy to check with ashroc's wiring diagram, following the other wires.) With the machine unplugged, and from memory: the multimeter would show you that the switches are on/off switches and not something like three-way switches, the third connector in the switches is used more like a place to hang the wire up. That helped me to connect the wiring diagram to the schematic picture below. So maybe your issue is not electrical and a red herring, but instead something in the water leading piping is blocked? Water splashing out doesn't sound good, maybe fix this up first, and then look up some of the trouble shooting in this forum excluding electrics, like opening the steam valve with brew switch on and see if water comes out?
  5. You probably have resolved this by now, but I find these boiler bolts seem to fully fuse to the boiler material, maybe it is the same material for original screws? I accept upfront to ruin the screws and replace them with generic non-Gaggia stainless steel ones (if you got soft brass ones) afterwards. Then I only have to concentrate on preserving the thread in the lower boiler half, to avoid tap&seat afterwards, that mind set makes working on it with brute force lot easier for me. In addition to the above ideas [heat never worked for me, RustRemover/CLR and light hammering/rattling with nose pliers, or cutting screw head off and pushing upper half of boiler on top & grip remaining screw body with pliers if needed] I had good success with carefully hammering an old mini-screw driver or similar into side of screw and tap it both clock and anti-clock wise , in a bid to lose the initial fusing and help penetrating oil to get in. If I muster the patience to only spend a minute a day on a particularly nasty bolt it will eventually break free. Otherwise you can drill the screw out with a much smaller size drill - the original screws seem to be soft material - and scrape the remaining screw carefully out, again in order to preserve thread on boiler side. (Someone with tap&seat experience might use quick drill out, but I actually enjoy the removal process in some meditative way :/). Also, if you resort to hammer a flat screw driver either between boiler halves or between boiler and screw to break scaling, beware of the soft material. But it lead to leaking if you sand boiler faces flat before reassembling, but it looks of course ugly on the outside, if you care about that sort of thing on a daily-use Gaggia Classic.
  6. Another heads-up that drying out the external heating elements if they got soaked in a strip down works perfectly. There are surprisingly many recommendations to "buy a new boiler" around, which for me at least spoils the fun of being able to repair almost all components of the rugged-design Classic, instead of ordering new parts. The first time I got Gaggia heating elements wet it took me a while to realise the connection: fuse tripped <-- happened after water exposure <-- can heat with earth disconnected. But all that good info is already concentrated here in this thread, like temporarily disconnecting the heating elements connectors to give the pump a chance to fill the boiler, explaining the time difference reported above between seconds before elements fizzle/steam, and fifteen minutes before it got dry...
  7. Coming back to here when I'm again stuck overhauling abused Gaggias, or now Le'Lit Combis. Initially some search engine sends me to the middle of some thread, and from there it's down the rabbit hole... (been lurking forever)
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