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Everything posted by olivermleach

  1. Thought I would start a new thread for this fix job. Recently bought a domobar super hx and have had some issues, got it working, only remaining problem is a cold puddoe of water forms under the machine over a period of time, especially when machine is idle (probably as this is a longer period of time). There was some leaking from the valve on previous inspection so I suspect this is the issue, but am wondering if anyone has any additional ideas for possible causes? Both valves seem in good condition when inspected, so I'm not sure if simply replacing one or the other will help.
  2. *** Update *** Exciting news - I've had some success with the VBM! I discovered this morning that one of the two heating element pins had become detached and the outer plastic looked cracked. Anyway the pin slotted back in. It was hard to spot originally as the pins and cables were deeply buried behind the Gicar control box - quite a busy area internally on that right-hand side. This explained why the machine was shorting every time I turned on the boiler to position 2. I also discovered that the level probe wire had escaped the Gicar again so I re-connected that firmly. Both the vacuum and OP valves seemed to be leaking a lot of water, so I took them out and they looked in fine conditon. I unscrewed the water level probe and again that looked fine - barely any scale. So I decided to crack on, thinking perhaps the boiler had overfilled a little and just needed heating and bleeding. Switched on the boiler - bingo, started to warm up, but a lot of water and air were escaping from both valves on top, though mainly the vacuum, however I persisted as I guessed there might be quite a few air pockets and the machine needed purging through. I had an absorbant moppet sponge soaking up the excess water, swapping over with a towel to wring out the sponge, as the boiler gradually got to temperature. Eventually the boiler got up to temperature and lo and behold the water and air began to dissipate them stopped, with the aid of running the steam and hot water wands open and closed a couple of times, and purging the grouphead. And that was it - now seems to be full operational, fingers crossed. Already made a banging espresso with some lightly roasted Werka Wuri Ethiopian from Caravan coffee roasters! Thanks all for the help, was very useful together with lots of internet research and some dogged persistence. The courier company should be shut down though!!
  3. Edesia Express sell them on Amazon for £29. I use them in two Gaggia's with 58mm 18g VST baskets and they work well.
  4. @jimbojohn55 have made quite a bit of progress. Discovered another problem - the water tank microswitch at the rear was not getting depressed as the screw that presses down onto the switch had been depressed. Chatted to an engineer on the phone yesterday re the eledtronics and we agreed that the loose cable was definitely for the water level probe, so clicked that back into CN4 and fired up the machine - voila, pump kicked into life. Them a few weird things happened. First, the pump switched off, so I turned to position 2...damn, fused. So switched everything off and on again and turned the dial back to position 1, and the pump fired up again, for what seemed like the same length of time. This made me wonder if it really knew when to cut out. So I turned it off and back to positiom 1 ome more time, again it fired up, but then... Water started dribbling over the work surface. Seemed the boiler had overflowed. Not sure how to troubleshoot the pressure relief valve, although may be an issue with the water level probe.
  5. Metal pulley for a vario rebuild. Motor working hard. Pulleys are currently out of stock on bella barista and US import would take up to 8 weeks. Bottomless vbm domobar portafilter (for if I ever get the machine operational...
  6. I now realise I made an error turning to position 2 without the pump having come on whilst in position 1, as this means the machine will have been trying to heat an empty boiler... ? very frustrating.
  7. Just need someone to guide me on the wires as can't find anything online.
  8. Have re- checked, a small blue cable is missing from the circuit, so that explains the deadness. Will post photo of circuit board here. There are the inserts on this side of the box: one multi-pronged (CN2), one with green/red/white (CN3) and one with just two greens. There is then a spare blue cable floating.
  9. I have the back cover off now. Oh my God! The entire Gicar box has come away from its contacts. Some courier! I have re- installed, turned on again, tripped the mains again. Now when I turn the knob to position two nothing happens - no orange light, no heating, and no mains tripped...also, when in position 1 the green light power lamp shows on but there is no sound of a pump working.
  10. I did read a few threads, including on here, about element failures. I have also run a hairdryer over the external and internals, turned on again and shorted after longer, maybe 1 second, not sure if significant. Anyway, not gonna try again just now without furthee checks. Sounds silly but how do I check the element? I've tried unscrewing the two flat head screws from below the cup tray which gives some limited views inside but can't see to the botrom. Guessing I need to take the whole outer cover off the back, but then what am I looking for? Cheers. Ps any threads on this, +/- photos?
  11. Hi all, Today have taken ownership of the above machine. I am not sure it had the kindest life but was working okay before the seller shipped it to me. Unfortunately he must have thought that bubble wrap is optional so the machine came pretty poorly packaged. Anyway, have given the machine a wipe down and in the process of cleaning the portafilter etc. But now find when turning the machine to position 2 it trips my mains supply. Did a little reading, and so tried unplugging everything else in my kitchen, but no luck. I know the machine requires a lot of current, not sure what to do next other than spend $$$$ getting an electrician. Unfortunately the bright spark seller had removed the model sticker so I can give any more details on the model. It's the electronic button operated model, not the manual lever-operated. The seller said that all buttons except the continuous brew function had stopped working, so it was a slight risk. But I wonder whether it is just a current problem on my mains electricity. User manual: "This machine draws a lot of electrical current. Be sure that the circuit into which it is plugged can handle the draw and is protected by a GFCI (consult an electrician if in doubt). If the circuit breaker is repeatedly tripped or the circuit’s fuse repeatedly blows, consult an electrician to determine the cause. A possible solution may be to use a different circuit or to be sure that the Vibiemme is the only device using that circuit. • Power protection/surge suppression of 1040 joules or higher is recommended to protect the electronics of this machine. Even the manual model contains an electronic control for the boiler auto-fill system. Additionally, the heating element can be burned out from a power surge. Breakdowns caused by power surges are not covered by the warranty." The plug states 250V / 13A.
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