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kozesluk

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About kozesluk

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    Brewing Nicely

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  • Location
    London
  • Interests
    photography, books, art
  • Occupation
    Coffee Machines Service Engineer

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  1. you can literally punch a seal like that from anything soft (around SHORE 60-80 hardness would be nice) and resistant to water. NBR, Viton, even Silicone... you can even use a scissors to cut down to size a larger seal. and even the thickness doesn't matter as much as it might seem, it's usually around 4 mm but depends... shops sell whole spare OPV because they make much better money on replacing whole (also, it's faster) than fucking around with seals... and to say that it is rare for a seal to fail? fuck me running, what a bullshit!
  2. you can pop the seal out and put it back the other side up, sometime it works...
  3. OPV plunger rubber seal deteriorated. Replace it.
  4. And how the hell is that supposed to do anything with an alignment as the front fucking plate isn't part of the burr mechanism except for governing the distance between burrs in their bloody centre-axis thus not affecting the alignment at all? All the other points are valid; the 4 long grinder chassis bolts, burr carrier, even torque of the 6 burr bolts does have an effect. The front plate, however good are your intentions, isn't a part of the problem at all. I've seen the adjustment knob sliding on the shaft. Not common but it happens. Some of our customers keep on recalibratin
  5. I would think that this famed "factory calibration" is simply an equal torque on the chassis bolts. Anyroad, I just tighten them all to same torque in a hope its okay. Hadn't had any trouble so far. Can't afford the Alignment tool at the moment but that is of course the best practice. Calibration is not my business and I was not expected to do that.
  6. It should fill the chamber quite fast when you press the microswitch behind the lever. Keep the valve closed and try it (with machine on, but it shouldn't be hot otherwise you risk scalding). If it just fills from the bottom I'd guess you might have something blocked in the top HX pipe. To increase your confusion, most water during the brew comes from the bottom pipe (and the exact blend is dictated by the ratio between top and bottom HX pipe orifices), there is no one-way valve inside the thermosyphon.
  7. Rocket doesn't suggest traditional descale because if you get shit clogged you would sue them for instructions but what I have described is what we routinely did in workshop. First run a descale, then open everything up, clean, replace worn parts, lubricate, test, done. The top pipe to group chamber has nothing to do with flow, it just drops your brew temp by restricting the termosyphon action. As I don't have the machine in front of me and miss my crystal ball I'm really unable to tell where is your machine exactly clogged. It's usually the jet, sometimes the filter. If not you just
  8. Just lube the O-ring, it will prevent further seizing of the bottom part of the mushroom. Moly 111 is food-safe, no problem with water contact. The whole cam mechanism needs to be properly lubricated (again, Moly 111 is fine there) and your brew water passes through there as well so the same water contact... You don't need to squeeze excessive amount there, just smidge it with your finger to spread the lube around. 4) although not the best guide, this explains it https://support.clivecoffee.com/e61-cam-lubrication-brew-lever 7) your PF will one day just unlock itself out. The ma
  9. so much work for such a little effect, sorry. 1) buy a needle file in 0.6 and 0.7 mm size to clean the gicleur (jet). they are usually sold as a set of different sizes. 2) looking at the picture of your top HX entering the mushroom chamber - its severely blocked. clean that hole up, it should be 3 mm orifice (integrated in the pipe). this is definitely decreasing your brew temperature. 3) the four mushroom holes have negligible effect on the free flow, that is determined solely by jet dimensions. 4) lube that red o-ring well, also lube all mating surfaces on the valves (the
  10. worst case I can "volunteer" as I'm currently on furlough (so plenty of time). DM me if interested.
  11. dude LOL, your OPV is probably saving your boiler from exploding. Either your fill in valve leaks (hence the steam boiler full of water) or your HX cracked open. turn it of and give it to someone with at least a basic knowledge of how's the espresso machine supposed to operate...
  12. the non-3-way valve versions have simply a one-way valve just straight behind the shower foil. you can't backflush it and there is no need to. simply unscrew a screw holding the shower screen and clean the area behind, there isn't anything else there to clean at all. so the maintenance is easier. however, as was stated above, it doesn't release the residual pressure from the PF so that's the trade-off.
  13. Hi Eric, quite a few still left, are you interested in Strada branded or regular LM (APF)? Just to note, they won't fit in standard envelope (too high) so the cheapest postage is with Hermes...
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