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About kozesluk

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    Coffee Machines Service Engineer

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  1. classic. oh, and order a new gasket as well, in case no one said that before.
  2. level probe can't trip RCD. it's capacitive sensing, no current. 1) unplug boiler fill solenoid so your boiler stops overfilling, clean the level probe (mechanically, forget the acid and make sure there is no residual moisture on the insulation teflon sleeve or anywhere else) and connect it 2) disconnect heating element, both contacts 3) turn machine on, it shouldn't try to fill. if it just tries to fill for few seconds - okay, happens, no drama. it should work normally (ie dispense water from grouphead and try to fill boiler if you remove the wire from level probe - there is no significant voltage so it is safe to touch) 4) reconnect the heating element. if it now doesn't work, your element needs replacement.
  3. your heating element is most likely short to the ground, therefore unsafe to be used, although you might be able to measure reasonable resistance between its poles.
  4. the cam has a shape that keeps it secure in lever-top position. don't mingle with anything. don't fix what's not broken. position/rotation of the valve pins is irrelevant.
  5. looking at the top, left side of the boiler, next to two pipe fittings (one goes to steam valve, second to safety valve). I would just replace it. otherwise just open the steam valve until a steady flow of steam comes out of it.
  6. if its of any help: CN2 Pulsantiera - keyboard (most likely) CN3 - flow meter? CN4 - chassis and level probe (LIV) connection EROG - brew solenoid POMPA - pump CAR - heating C. CARICHI - fill solenoid anyway, I would begin with cleaning the level probe. then disconnect the heating element and try to run in all positions, pump, brew, fill... oh, maybe empty the boiler first a bit (turn machine sideways with steam wand open, the water will escape - if there is no boiler drain valve). connect heating back, try again. if it trips RCD then your heating element is most likely shot; if it trips overcurrent protection fuse, you need a stronger fuse and maybe new element, but that isn't as common as short to the ground (which trips RCD)...
  7. I would begin from the top cover, you should be able to see it from there. Take picture, that would be helpful.
  8. should be 3/8" (1/4" is rare) I would advise you to check the water level in your boiler as well. there should be no water coming through safety valve at all, just steam. if its water, you either have scaled up level probe (check, clean) or leaking fill valve.
  9. is it with rotary pump? if so, there is a bypass plunger on the pump that is to adjust the brew pressure. clockwise goes up, counter goes down. simple.
  10. why did you do any bloom? just put it in the basket and turn on the moccamaster. you might in the first half minute stir the slurry to wet all the coffee faster but I would refrain from any additional water as that will dilute your coffee. and, go for like 65 g/l. then, if its still weak, grind finer.
  11. the only thing you might want to do now is tighten up the expansion valve so the pressure creeps up to 12 bar. your brew boiler pressure will always creep up to the expansion valve setpoint as it is expanding by being heated up. the manometer shows you that pressure, not the inlet pressure or the pressure just after pump. it is the pressure inside the coffee brewing system. and there is no need or point in trying to decrease this internal pressure as that would make the water escape somewhere around when you do brew. so, just set the expansion valve so that the pressure goes up to 12 bar and live like a happy clam with a nice espresso machine.
  12. DMA UK (laspaziale.co.uk) https://mahlkonig.co.uk/
  13. just hit it harder on the spanner. there is no other trick to that. sometimes it helps if the machine is warm (but still no pressure in boiler!).
  14. I've had tried anything from 5 to 10 bar (all measure at 0 flow so max pressure after gigleur). My personal observations: - Low pressures seemed to me to work generally better with larger gigleurs (0.8 mm), darker roasted beans or longer brew ratios. The oils and fats seemed to separate from the rest of the liquid quite a bit, sometimes even flowing on top of the surface like dots. - Higher pressures benefited from smaller gigleurs (0.6 mm was my favourite size in the end) and let lighter roasted coffees get more bright. More demanding on puck prep. I didn't like it above 9 bar. Crema was noticeably thicker than in low pressure extractions and ristrettos had heavier mouthfeel. - Anything around 7-8 bar was OK but it lack a bit of the "extremes" or character that could be brought out by standard pressures. I definitely loved 3 bar cafe crema (120 g from 10 g in 30 s) done with almost filter coarse grind, though. I ended up with 8.5 bar (almost 1 less than industry standard) and 0.6 mm restrictor, worked in the end well both for cafe cremas and normal espressos. I was never too much of a fan of thick ristretto shots though. All tested on heavily modified Grimac La Uno with external rotary pump with Eureka MDX and Mahlkonig/Ditting EK10.
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