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About deklol

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    Green Bean
  1. Yes, but the hx tubes are cracked. So, the boiler and the hx shares the same water. Could I rewire from boiler to group, and add a pump in between to build up pressure?
  2. yes the pressure is added after the water is collected from the boiler... easy to see because of the two meters. But could this be done with a rotary pump too? and with my Portofino?
  3. Hmm...was thinking... Instead of having it as a HX, could I "rewire" the copper tubing so that it goes through the main water area of the boiler instead? I mean rewire the pressure of the pump to pressurise the whole boiler? would it burst? would the safety valve go crazy? I Have another Machine, Expobar Brewtus, and it seems to me that the whole boiler is pressured when I brew. Or perhaps it collects water from the boiler and then makes it go thru the pump and then the pressure is created? IDK...suggestions and explainations welcome
  4. Yup well....Anyone wanna buy anything? all of it works. Except the HX. I'm located in Sweden
  5. It's dead. I've screened thru the whole internet for a new boiler/hx. Can't find.. any suggestions?
  6. Hey dave, Thanks for confirming the material of the boiler. Today I will remove the heating element and see if I can see any cracks in the HX-tubes inside the boiler. I was certain my diagnosis is correct the two groups behaving so differently. Say, if the hx is not cracked, then what could be the reason for this behaviour? I mean, boiler filling up when brewing button is pressed for only one group and not the other, and when I blow in to the functioning groups HX-pipes it's completely sealed and I can't blow, whereas when I do the same procedure with the faulty groups HX-tubes I hear whistling and bubbling from the boiler... Again, thanks for the help
  7. ...I am sure it is because: - The person I bought it from stored it in a non-heated garage for years - One group is working, but when I brew from the other group no water comes out and the boiler is filling up - If I connect the group pipes of the faulty group to tubes and blow into one while holding the other shut - the false pressure valve is blowing out air. Question 0: What material is the boiler made of? It looks like chromed copper, however I cannot find this information anywhere on google. I cannot even find a spare one, so I guess they're discontinued... So, the boiler is welded shut. The only reasonable way I can see to open it is to dremel-cut it open. Question 1: What makes it easier to weld/blaze/solder together, if I cut it in the old weld or make a new scar? Once I've located the crack, I need to stitch it. Question 2: What is the best way to do this? I'm thinking of soldering this. it seems like some materials can be soldered to withstand about 30bars which should be enough. Any suggestions or recommendations? Thanks guys. Here's a pic. PS. Old photo, it's descaled and cleaned now.
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