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About mr-bean

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    Norfolk UK
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  1. In some circumstances 3 holes are better than 1, but not on a Classic.
  2. mr-bean

    Gaggia 1998

    Hi DWP and welcome. If you can post a piccy or the details on the sticker on the base it might help to identify exactly which model then someone who's had or got one can help. Almost all spares are available most are used in multiple machines.
  3. That's nothing out of the ordinary as the standard stat is rated at 145C. Once you start steaming it soon drops to 130C
  4. Since my last post, I have used nothing but SS UHT milk from Aldi and have had a perfect micro foam every time. As it only comes in litres, I get a good turn around of fresh product.
  5. It's controlled via a circuit board, I don't think anyone on the forum has attempted to bypass it.
  6. On this year you remove and clean the screen and spring loaded valve in the group head. Cross head screw holds the screen, under that the flat slot brass screw in the centre is the valve. Back flushing on this model doesn't work. Look at the second section of parts list PDF. 29,28 and 22, 23, 24 2015-18 Parts guide.pdf
  7. You guys have a point, why didn't I think of the simple think first, the only variable over the last few months has only been the milk. Iv'e used the same Ashbeck water for years. Iv'e had the steam temp set the same since I fitted a PID in January. I have put everything back to how it was before and I'm off to buy a cow.
  8. I tried using water as I described in my last post. It did make a difference, but not that much. So I tried just tap water, that was an improvement again, but that now means more descalling than before. So I got some UHT milk from my reserve stock and tried that. Wonders will never cease, it micro foamed better than Full or SS. So tap water & UHT are 2 improvements on what I had. I will now try less steam temp and see how that goes in case it was heating the milk too quickly before it could micro foam.
  9. Descaled about 3 months ago. Using Ashbeck water with a pH of 6.4 so it might be slightly acidic, so have just cut it 50/50 with tap water @ 7.6 pH to try again in a couple of hours. I'll try just one change at a time to see how it goes
  10. On my pre 2015 Classic I have my steam PID set at 140C and use a Rancilio wand, all has been OK, but just recently I have not been able to micro froth the milk, instead it splits it. I tried fresh SS and whole, but with the same result. I use a milk jug with a temp strip which has always been OK, and take the milk up to 65C. Should I try, 1. taking down the steam temp in case the steam is scalding the milk or 2. not opening the steam valve fully ?
  11. I have an image of the 2019 R10840 Pro Classic and it had a stainless steel steam valve fitted directly onto of the boiler as the pre 2015 models but no brass OPV, the bar pressure on this one is governed by the spring valve on the top fitting of the ULKA pump, you can see the spring through the pipe.
  12. I just bought one, bargain price: https://coffeehit.co.uk/collections/spare-parts/products/backflushing-blank-disc
  13. As no one seemed to know what might be causing this, I did a back flush today and the noise has stopped.
  14. On my fully PID'd 2012 Classic when I get near to the end of my steaming routine I get a steamy crackle noise coming out of the vent pipe going into the drip tray. Would I be right in thinking it may be a particle in the solenoid valve. The steam temp when it starts has dropped from 145C to about 130C. Or am I being paranoid and it's supposed to do this.
  15. This would depend on the machine. It would be better if you post the year of manufacture from the label stuck on the underside.
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