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IamOiman

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IamOiman last won the day on May 15 2020

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About IamOiman

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Napoli/Massachusetts/Rhode Island
  • Interests
    ESPRESSO, Computers, Investing
  • Occupation
    Electrical Engineer

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  1. I re-tapped the thread in the lever fork and lever for the Pavoni. As stated earlier it is identical to modern Astoria/CMA groups: M16 x 1.5 thread. Before I could not screw the lever in due to the damaged thread but that is now fixed. While looking at the photos I would like the opinion of others one whether the lever should be rechromed due to the many speckles of rust where the plating has come off. I am unsure whether to through with that or not as I do not want the lever to look 'off' with the rest of the group. The lever fork should be cleaned up after a polish at the neck where the leve
  2. welp, I was scrambling today when the parts order failed to go through with LFSpareparts. They did not accept my family's business number as justification since we are classified as an end-store rather than a repair shop or distributor. It worked for Ascaso but not for them 😣 I might just form my own business at this point to get that access back 😬 I managed to get all but one or two parts from other sources fortunately for similar pricing. I dropped off my first load of panels at my metal guy to polish up. I do not have the materials to polish stainless steel, and I know it wil
  3. I placed my big parts order with LFspareparts. I have not dealt with them before but I am curious to see how the process goes. I am still salty Ascaso migrated and left their old site . I think overall I made parts orders from 4 different sites as some of them only had specific parts for the best price that outweighed the additional shipping costs. The pipes and fittings are all cleaned up, and are in a much better condition than before. My little Omega grinder runs at a very high rpm so I needed to be very very attentive to make sure nothing went flying or my hands got caught.
  4. Normally I will not post on just a small topic, but I am scratching my head here as I try to anaylze what is happening with the bottom of thermosyphon. To get to this point the aluminum rings needed to come off. It turned out I did not need an angle grinder but rather I simply cut through the hex nut and bolt recessed near this assembly with a hacksaw and could shear it off with a wrench after cutting three quarters through. Then I could take a punch and tap out the bolts securing the rings to the flange surface. I was expecting some sort of solder, but after wire brushing the surface it
  5. Turns out the citric acid help a little with the gasket and after about 3 hours of labor I got the lid off. The paint thinner is not needed! This is probably one of my least favorite tasks to do, probably only asbestos removal ranks worse so far. Check out the inside of the boiler lid, ther are no copper inserts for the bolts 😬 ! No wonder I could take out the element bolts (rather than studs, you can see the hex head imprint on the inside) so easily; they just crumbled away from rusting. I am pleasently surprised at the condition of the inside, mostly with the solder joints. They appear prett
  6. Thank you! I post so others may see what may be involved with these machines from the mundane to 'oh sh*t!' territory. The frame is fully stripped and I can send it to the powdercoaters, but in the process I accidentally popped out the rubber foot from its bolt so I will need to get it back on. I will wait for my Lambro to be fully stripped then I can place one big order for the powdercoating. I have all of the gasket sizes sourced for the Pavoni except for one: the packing gland of the steam/hot water valves. I measured it to be 20x9x15 mm, and even if I used three 20x9x5 mm gasket
  7. The boiler is the last big thing I need to take apart for the Lambro outside of the stuck foot on the frame and the two sheared M4 panel bolts. I cleaned up the group pieces and I can start anytime to sand the aluminum parts while I search for a chrome guy with the lower group and other bits. The lever fork pin is extremely worn, this machine saw some use! Compare it to a new one I have. I upgraded my little heating element to heat up my citric acid solution. It has a switch now! It is safer than it looks as the circuit is also GFCI protected and I observ
  8. Thanks, I wish the same to you!
  9. The boiler flange is not playing nice with me, so I put it in time out and a soak in ATF to work on getting the heating elements out. In the meanwhile I tackled the nasty task of getting all the grease off the group pieces. This is a multistep process that can be summarized as the following: 1. Wipe off as much grease as I can 2. Use a degreaser like GUNK Engine Cleaner 3. Rinse and wash parts in ultrasonic cleaner with Joe Glo or related coffee cleaner 4. Repeat as necessary I first needed to take off the second, smaller pin connecting the two rod pieces and the bearings. After a
  10. I stripped the rest of the Pavoni frame today. It's really nicely thought out in where the bolts are located. Note the frame is comprised of an upper and lower frame, the latter holding the gas assembling, drain tray, power switch, and water inlet, while the upper frame holds the boiler and panels. It was all M8 bolts, and while rusted they came out without issue. I could then take off all the remaining bits except for one foot (again?!). At least my Boema's two remaining feet are already off 😂 . Historically getting my frame powdercoated could affect the panels going back on due to the
  11. The feet have been focused in the past few days. I intend to turn them on a lathe since they were scratched up, so I elected to use a pipe wrench. I will make sure the marks left are taken out and they did not deep marks. To take off the feet it involved a week soak in ATF solution, above and below (the frame was flipped for the latter) then a 45-60 second heatup time by the propane torch. The back feet came off first, and the right front foot also came off (in fact it was the easiest/least stuck and came out with the M12 fine thread stud still in the foot. Those studs will be replaced).
  12. With the arrival of the face spanner tool for the Pavoni P67 I could also do the same for the Boema groups! It was the same process of securing the group to the vise then unscrewing them with 5mm pins. As an aside I am getting requests by some other collectors on what my spanner tool is; I got the OTC 6613 Variable Pin Spanner Wrench for ~$60 USD. Really good acquisition I think. The pistons came off pretty easily even with the rust. There was a small pile on the floor, and this is after I cleaned up the pistons before hand! With the pistons off I could unscrew the bearing bolts an
  13. Another tool arrives on the doorstep! It's a nice face spanner tool with swappable metric sized pinions. I think it is used for vehicles, but I got it for the piston disassembly and will also be useful on my Boema. It is much bigger than I thought, that square hole is for a 1/2" drive if you need more leverage and the base tool is already a foot long! I heated up the piston and struck it on the face with a mallet before I placed the upper group in the vise by the bearing bolts. The hole size is 5mm on the piston face, and with a nice firm tug the tool worked perfectly and the piston bega
  14. I highly recommend that @Rincewind! It was rainy and nasty today so I was confined in the basement for this next step. I got the piston unscrewed from the upper group with the aid of a rigid 45-52mm c-spanner and 12" crescent wrench. I heated up the piston threads prior as well, added a few zip ties while cocking the lever with the aid of a second helper to take pressure off the threads, and then wacked the bottom face of the piston with a mallet to help unlock the threads. It required a forceful tug to begin unscrewing the threads but I managed to do it without damaging the upper group
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