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About larkim

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    Brewing Nicely

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    Coffee, running, running, coffee
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    Accountant, sad

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  1. Might not work if a switch needs pushing, but I use a TP-Link Kasa smartplug and just leave the powerswitch on my Gaggia permanently turned on so I can control that via Alexa, Google Home, from my phone or at the machine itself. As well as have it set on timers to come alive at certain times of the day.
  2. I'm making no promises, but there's a birthday at some point this year and it will give a family member a laugh for me to ask them to get me a set of scales. You won't believe this, but I actually currently enjoy coffee without weighing a single thing!! I know, outrageous!! 😉 Anyway, any suggestions for an optimal set of scales to work with the GC would be appreciated; I'm presuming there are ones which slot nicely into the drip tray area etc?
  3. Does that work effectively? I'm not sure I'd get that much more light in there in the early mornings.
  4. One thing I didn't do was wire it up to the on-off front switch; I've got a smart plug which controls the whole power supply. My rationale being that it meant I kept the cabling away from the hot area, not knowing if the cables I used had issues with heat or not, and that I didn't know how to do that!! I suspect it's simply a matter of removing the piggyback from the live input and adding that on one of the pins of the switch instead, so I might consider that if others think that could work. Wouldn't change anything functionally though.
  5. Now I know what one is, that would be pretty cool!! But perhaps not....
  6. LOL, never even thought about the EMC potential! Would have been gutted if the LEDs had taken out my wifi!! Didn't think to go dark, but it would be pretty bright. Part of me is wishing I'd picked a more subtle colour than the cool white, but there's no other LED highlights in the kitchen so whatever I picked would have been wrong. Orange to match the bulbs on the GC I suppose would have been a good option, though I'm not sure an LED can run that colour (at least, orange LED strips didn't seem to be plentiful on eBay!) The key for me was the term "LED driver" which I stumbled upon
  7. Finished, quite happy with the outcome. Took about 20 minutes, bar struggling to find a decent adhesive to stick the strip above the water tank. I used this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003DV8QBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077PLXW16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 With a little bit of live and earth pulled from a cable, and a couple of piggyback disconnect adaptors. The LED driver sits nicely behind the pump stand, the LED strip fits nicely in the gap between the side panel
  8. I've ordered a £5 LED driver from amazon (240v input 12v output) and with a couple of piggyback disconnect adaptors I'll wire it up directly to the back of the inbound mains and stick this to the inside rear of the case somewhere (I hope it fits!) with a short cut down strip of cool white 12v LEDs also coming for about £5. Should be good to go in about half an hour once the parts arrive later in the week - I'll post photos. Any light is better than no light so hopefully a single strip stuck over the top of the tank will be sufficient and not overkill. A faff (my better half has rolled h
  9. Oops, just realised I was misreading it!! I thought it was reading 0.6kw. in fact it was 0.6w!!!! Panic over!!
  10. Hmm, ok. I need to investigate further. Where would I stick the multimeter probes to investigate further? It's a 2006 model I think.
  11. I've just bought a TP Link Kasa smartplug with energy monitoring built in. I'd always assumed that when the "ready" light was off that the Classic wasn't consuming much power, but watching it during the day it switches between 1.3kw and 0.6kw only when the ready light is off or on. Is there a "keep warm" heating operation going on constantly?
  12. I thought of that but didn't like the thought of the potential for bacterial growth. Obviously, cleaning would solve that!
  13. Constantly frustrated about not being able to see the water level, I'd imagine a small strip of LEDs either plugged into the mains directly or into the Classic piggy backing off the switches etc would be a good solution. Anyone done this? Struggling to find a starting point of a nice short strip of LEDs, but maybe I'm not searching for the right thing?
  14. The steam wand gasket at the top of the boiler is external to the water flow - it sits between the valve outer body and the boiler outer body, hence it is well sealed but a failure wouldn't result in anything in the steam transit.
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