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Gm7dha

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About Gm7dha

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    Brewing Nicely

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  1. Your buzz I would imagine is 'normal' as it's a SMPS... Probably cheap components and not particularly well filtered for EMI/RFI either.
  2. Thanks. I've recently had a struggle finding the correct fittings for the hose between the OPV and brew boiler. I need to install in the flowmeter between these two points, anyway, fittings are coming, hopefully they're the correct ones and I get get cracking on. My minimal knowledge of Arduino/C++ led me to believe I'd possibly need more than one Arduino, however, having researched Finite State Machines, I should be able to keep it all in one Arduino. Code is about 70% complete at the moment. Also, my V1/V2 steam arm decided to give up. I wasn't too confident with it anyway, trying to weld two dissimilar metals was never going to go well. Anyway, installed a V3 steam arm no problem. Will hopefully have more photos and progression up soon!
  3. Well I managed to extract a drinkable Espresso yesterday with a simple switch to start/stop the process... Just to make sure it worked ok. I did have to switch out the 10A relay for one of the 2A relays to trigger the pump. The 10A wouldn't latch for some reason. I tried another 10A and a 40A with no joy... Possibly something to do with holding currents or something? The pump only draws 200mA or so. Anyway, I can foresee an issue with the flowmeter as it uses interrupts. I can use it within a 'while' loop but this means the PID will run away with itself for 30secs or so which is not good (unless I'm missing something as I've never used Arduino before). I decided to buy 3 Nano's, 1x for PID, 1x Flowmeter, and the last one to swap out for the Mega eventually. My understanding is you can have Arduino's communicate with each other, this means the PID's and Flowmeter can continuously run without interruption and interrupting the main code/loop. Perhaps a Raspberry Pi would have been a slightly better option but I believe they don't have TTL And would require bi-directional shift registers - all a bit too much for me at the moment! On other news, I'm having to look into 1/8" BSP female fitting with either push-in or hose barbs to connect the flowmeter in-line. Also, my 'welded' steam wand decided to give up so I've ordered a Silvia V3 as it looks like it should just pop on! Will keep the updates coming.
  4. Congrats! Hope the Niche fits in nicely!
  5. Well it was project day today and made good progress. Most of the top-end is built up proper. The bottom end is temporarily set up for testing before I mount a metal enclosure underneath to house most of the electronics. A few more wires to plug into the Arduino and I can start testing. No menu's or "operations" set up yet in code - that'll take the most time of all in this project I think. Anyway... getting on with it nicely!
  6. Some 40A relays for my project... Ordered too many by mistake! Doh! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DSedghBjRne2i0ykhkBS-s-UDlQ1RIak/view?usp=drivesdk
  7. Ultrasonic water level sensor working and semi-calibrated to deliver water level percentage. The position of the sensor is roughly where it will sit once installed. I tried it here to make sure there would be no erroneous readings from wall reflections etc. You'll notice the reading fluctuates a lot when pouring the water in, this will be due to the ripples/movement - when the machine is in operation the water won't move quite so "violently" so will be fine. I require a cone-bit drill bit to drill the two holes in the casing for the TX/RX modules, should arrive tomorrow and can hopefully be fully trialled in it's proper state then.
  8. Made a prototype box for the OLED's today just to double check sizes and fitment etc. Needs a few adjustments but not too far out. Being where the displays are, I wanted them boxed and sealed to keep moisture out.
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  10. I may indeed upgrade for all they cost! I would have just taken them as face value. Thanks, MrShades. Saves me any future hassle. The boilers only draw 5.6A max I believe, but best to err on the safe side. The reason I'm PID'ing the steam boiler is so I can have it idle at a lower temperature, thus, saving the seals etc and it means I can get it up to steam temp in no time rather than waiting if it was a mere on/off switching affair. Flowmeter operational:
  11. Got the PID code working for both RTD's/SSR's (Boilers), will need tuning once the machine is back together and running. Received my volumetric flowmeter today so I shall try get that up and running this weekend.
  12. Yeah i think the big problem with the steam boiler is that people would leave the unit powered on for a long time and also not refilling the boiler after steaming. To hopefully resolve the steam boiler issues I'm going to implement an auto-refill feature and also have the PID reduce the temperature to around 95°C after the machine has been sitting idle for more than 5 minutes. I'll be replacing the oring that seals the top/bottom parts of the boiler with a silicone one as well. I could use a 25A SSR and have the whole machine shut-off after say 30 minutes, or, just shut-off both boilers with existing SSR's I don't think I'll have much problem with the steam boiler taking all that into account.
  13. I thought I had a reference to KitchenAid in the title, seems I never, so yes, a bit misleading! I do apologise! Changed it now (hopefully it updates properly). I've got 2x new seal kits with the Silicone o-rings for the boilers. Hopefully that'll be better for the steam boiler. The steam boiler was leaking a bit but not badly, caught it before any damage was done to the castings/paint thankfully. Received my 4x SSR board today, 1x to control the pump, 1x to control the boiler 3-way solenoid, and 1x to control the steam boiler 2-way solenoid... leaves one spare for something else if anything happens to crop up. Also ordered an ultrasonic detector. Hopefully I'll be able to measure the water level in the water tank without any problems/spurious reflections from the tank walls throwing the readings off. If it works I'll have a percentage bar showing water level and a safety "lock-out" feature if water depletes to a certain level.
  14. All Gaggia made parts, even down to the castings. The poor reliability is due to the targeted market's lack of knowledge on how to properly use the machines; exception being the poor switch gear and overall execution of the assembly! Shame really. Looking forward to turning it into the machine it should have been
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