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About Steve_M

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    Brewing Nicely

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  1. Hi @Andy6 the paint did hold up fine while I was using it. I did put 3 or 4 coats of clear coat on it. I've since replaced the machine with an early 2000s classic that I also refurbed. I still keep the painted machine around as a spare. I would have preferred to have the case powder coated instead of painting it, but I couldn't find anyone in my local area that was able to do it.
  2. Backflushing with a cleaner also cleans the internals of the solenoid valve. If it gets clogged with coffee oils over time it won't seal properly.
  3. Right. Right. Not quite. The solenoid allows the excess pressure and liquid coffee that's built up in the basket / grouphead to be redirected to the tube and down into the drip tray. Right. Typically you would operate the steam wand without the pump on, as the pressure from the 140(ish) water in the boiler will be plenty. The OPV is to stop the machine from putting too much pressure on the coffee grinds. The solenoid is to relieve the pressure from the group head after the pump has stopped. When the solenoid is active, the path from the boiler to
  4. Why would you need 2 SSRs when there's only 1 boiler? The temperature probe would feed the PID, the SSR controls the boiler and if you tie into the steam switch, that should trigger the PID to use a higher setpoint.
  5. If you haven't already, open a case at https://resolutioncenter.ebay.com/
  6. I think you've bought someone else's project that they realized they were in over their head with. I'd probably move forward trying to return it, otherwise getting a chunk of your money back and putting those funds towards replacement parts. The machine isn't a lost cause, but it's going to need to be fully torn down, deep cleaned and put back together with the addition of some fresh seals, bolts and rubber pump mount.
  7. I can see from the pictures that the steam thermostat at the top doesn't have the wires connected to it. That will prevent the machine from heating up. The machine is clearly in need of a deep cleaning and once complete, should run quite well for you.
  8. The levelness of the grouphead wont matter since the water is under pressure.
  9. The 5th spring inside the switch bank that is connected to the lower part of the brew light?
  10. The AD8945 thermocouple amp is analog with an output of 5 mV/C. The ADC on the ESP8266 is only 10 bit and of questionable quality. The ADS1115 is a precision 16 bit ADC. In reality it's only 15 bit since we're not measuring negative voltage values. It also has 4 ADC channels, so if down the road I want to incorporate something like a pressure transducer, I can use one of the free analog inputs on the ADS1115.
  11. The "no unsightly box" approach is what I was going for. I was using a small OLED screen with it at first, but after a while I didn't bother with it. I know that after 7 or 8 minutes that it's warmed up and ready to go. You can also visually tell it's warmed up as you'll see the brew light turn off for a split second every 5 seconds, as that's all is needed to maintain the setpoint once it's warmed up. Of course I can also check it from my phone and remotely turn on the boiler from anywhere in the world!
  12. I've just pushed a bunch of code changes that include being able to use the steam switch to increase the temperature setpoint. I've also enabled MQTT support, which is great for those using Home Assistant. GitHub repo here
  13. In June of '18 I did a restore of a late 90's classic (link to thread) and decided to add an Arduino based PID controller to it. My little PID controller worked pretty well, but it was a little fragile and moving the machine to clean it / around it usually meant crossing my fingers that the controller would work. Fast forward to the end of 2020 and I've designed and had a set of 5 PCBs made up at JCLPCB for about $20 CAD including shipping! I tested it out on my Franken Baby and it worked great, so now I've got my Classic complete as well and it's working out great. It gets powered on/off
  14. I doubt it. The next layer under the chrome is copper, which doesn't pose any real risk.
  15. My guess. 5 = right profile of the case. 8 = water funnel cover
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