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ajohn last won the day on May 13

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  1. They are one and the same but it's a torturous path to follow. It can also be down to a brand used by a countries agent for Breville but don't think that is the case now and may never have been. The aldi machine is a machine sold under the Gastrobak name or how ever it is spelled. It contains a BE soleniod block. It may use a thermoblock or thermo what ever. Some one would have to look. Very very poor review as it clearly has a 3 way action and is a Sage machine or Breville take your pick. Actually I think there was a world wide BE once that looked the same.
  2. I just posted how to check permanently on triacs here. That can result in things getting too hot even the group head.
  3. I got fed up with answering Sage problems. There must be a leak somewhere if brew water is just going to the drip tray. Solenoid acting up might cause it but water would go out of the 3 way pipe. It may also stop flow all together. New solenoids are even on Amazon. Buzzing can mean it just needs cleaning. I assume it's powered via a triac - something to check with a multimeter. As with the other triac drives I think those connect parts to neutral so one terminal is always live when the machine is connected to the mains. They may connect to live but don't think so. So when checking do it plugged in machine off across both terminals. If at mains voltage that means it's always on. A triac needs replacing. maybe it's drive chip too. Check the state of it's drive by measuring volts on ones that are ok. I'd say scale blocking most of the pipe work is unlikely on a DB. Might be possible on the steam circuit after the boiler and possibly into it. Definitely possible on both boiler drain pipes and at the drain valves. Scale sludge building up in the boilers as not descaled often enough. That can also cause more serious grief as the machine can think there is water in the boiler when there isn't. If there has been a large water or steam leak in the machine I would suggest baking the entire board at 100C or so for at least 1/2hr or lower for longer. I suppose the brew water preheat pipework in the steam boiler could block but difficult to see why. Well water would be delivered to it but none would come out of the other side. The way to handle any blockage - check where it is going to and note where it is no longer coming out. Not a good idea to hose down the inside of a live machine. Very brief check needed and some care. If scale is blocking a pipe it can be hard to see as just in the metal ferrule at the ends of the pipes. More common on thermothingy machines. If a pipe is removed for any reason it's best to replace the O ring with a new one.
  4. Whoops can't remember if the base fixing screws are covered with rubber feet or etc but just pop those out if you can't see the screws. I sold mine a while ago.
  5. It's a while since I had mine apart. The videos on youtube relate to replacing an impeller that swept the grinds out that has been updated so it's doesn't wear any more. However the basic casing and how it's all help together hasn't changed. If you look at the base the fixing screws can be removed and just the base taken off - easy. You will be able to see any water. Hair drier etc if damp. If you want to dismantle further the videos will help but may show different adjustment and step counting methods being used. Once the base is off a longish screw driver is needed to go any further but the screws that hold the top in place can be seen.
  6. If the electrics are wet more or less zero and probably trip out your house electrics if those are reasonably up to date. Chances of shocks from metal parts, grinds choking up due to water. Those are a few things that spring to mind as water has probably got well inside the grinder. Only way to find out is open it all up and look. I don't think there is anything likely to rust.
  7. The burrs are stainless so no problem there I washed them a few times There are videos on stripping them down on youtube. Take note of how the setting numbers work. Set it at the lowest and position the big worm wheel the same when it goes back together. The engineers calibrate them by turning the same wheel by hand until the burrs touch and then backing off a tiny amount. As you can't power up to set to min you may need to do this after you have put it back together again. Watch you haven't put it back together in a way that the burrs actually rub at min setting. They should run dead clear at a setting of 2 and may slow the motor down a touch at a setting of 1 but don't run like that for long. Going from 1 to 2 means going say to 5 and then to 2. There is some back play in them and that should take it out easily. If too close at 1 it will really slow the motor down, things warm up and it runs even slower and slower etc.
  8. I just turn mine on and use it when it says ready. I've found other methods don't offer any advantage. Set early via the built in clock - too early and it will switch itself off. How to choose in this area - as always taste. If leaving it for 1/2hr improves it do it funny feeling it will turn itself off. Preheating the portafilter adds to the usual ~3min heat up time. Maybe another 5 if it's left in. I don't as found no taste difference unlike steps needed to preheat the internals of a BE. I have mostly used a bottomless though. The OP's problem. Beans or grinder but it might also be the tuning used. I have actually used beans that needed a ratio of 5 to achieve a balanced taste. Not fresh roasted from my usual suppliers though. I'm using a bean at the moment that leaves a film of water on the used puck. Some do. In my case enhanced as I have started using lower fill levels. No more pucks sticking to the shower screen. So far anyway. The machine is happy with the grinds a good 10mm+ below the rim of the basket - sadly my tamper isn't. What happens when the dose is reduced - invariably there is a need to grind finer. What does that do in this case. I doubt if many bother finding out.
  9. Like all machines they need opening up and inspecting periodically really and water leaks need to be found. It's all a mixed bag as it's pretty clear that some DB's last for a long time. How many do they sell and how many fail before people might expect them not to need attention. I don't know and doubt if anyone else does. We do here from people who have had a problem. I'm inclined to look at it on a cost per shot basis and that bits fail on all so there comes a point where I would be happy to replace with a new one. The warrantee should cover early failures of any type. Then comes the question of what some one gets when they buy them and what they get if they buy another make. Tricky area. I have wondered about the machines descale interval but sadly in some ways my refurb arrived with more scale in it than a descale cycle will remove. I am at O ring replacement time probably past it so time for an engineering style descale as well. This involves looking to see there isn't any and none accumulated anywhere. A lady on here paid engineers to do this sort of thing and a total inspection every 2 years. Some Sage users chose to buy the old filter style off Amazon as it was cheaper than Sage's. Only thing is that the Amazon ones don't soften at all. The DB comes with some guidance on water hardness. Their other machines tend not to.
  10. This has already been covered - a thread about an end game machine. LOL in some ways it is.
  11. It's probably a standard part that fits Ulka pumps directly. Pass one where to find it but if one looks the same it's is very likely to be the same. It's possible to fit a metal one. Look on home barista but on the Breville dual boiler. It should be possible to use the same idea. When looking for info on Sage machines it is usually a good idea to search Breville which ever one it is. Sage buyers tend to be a bit lame when it comes to machine parts changes etc. Not so all Breville buyers.
  12. The BE solenoids are on Ebay. The seller. German, was listing them with either brass or stainless bases which are what Sage use. The stainless ones cost a little more. Highly likely that the solenoids just need opening up and cleaning anyway. Scale sludge messes them up. It's rather easy to do. Coils are on amazon. Those I suppose may age.
  13. You should be able to get a 1 to 2 ratio out of the Sage grinder but trying to get it in exactly 30sec may prove tricky. Over 30secs should be feasible. What it does to taste - find out rather than assuming 1 to 2 in 30sec or what ever is always correct as it isn't. Adjusting the dose can help. One problem is weight really. Different beans occupy different volumes in the portafilter at the same weight. It's possible to find that some beans will over fill the portafilter and others wont. One thing a number of people found is that if the weight of grinds is slowly increased the puck eventually sticks to the shower screen. Add a touch more and it doesn't. It's not a bad place to work. The only way to isolate all Sage machines from the mains is to unplug them. Or turn them off at the socket switch. Do the OPV adjustment mod as suggested and you will find the drip tray fills rather quickly.
  14. The buttons assuming they function as they do on a BE produce as much as they are programmed to do. There is no saying what they will produce as supplied. In my case the default setting of the double button produced 30g out for 10g in taking around 37sec. This suited the bean. The time varied a bit as would be expected but the 30g was held pretty closely. I left the double as it was and programmed the single button for other beans but not so successfully. Using the buttons this way and getting consistent shot weights can be tricky as a lot depends on the grinds preparation being very consistent so many people use this range of machines by weighing the shot that is coming out and ending it manually. I managed to do it but what is done to the grinds each time needs to be the same. In my case a nice even central heap which I could just tamp. The weight of grinds used can't vary much either. Say I stirred the grinds as some do - fine if I stirred them in exactly the same way every time otherwise there will be more variation. Currently I use a grinds cup. Even just altering the number of times the grinds are tapped down in the portafilter alters the output. SDB now so I use a fixed 30sec shot. Once the grinder has settled to the bean I get long runs of shots with around 1g variation and odd ones that have more. Maybe 4 or 5g more usually so just drink them.
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