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About ajohn

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    S. B'ham
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    Too Many
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    Retired design engineer

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  1. Last time I looked at a packet the ingredients were on it - a mix of acids. Descalers usually are. I edited the rest out as no point in commenting. John -
  2. Sounds like you have a rather old one. There has been some Sage Grinder Pro's without the adjustment as well. They provided shims to adjust the burr height if it was needed and later switched to the adjustable outer burr - metal, not plastic and a red dot. If it's grinding down into the espresso range I wouldn't worry about it. If I posted a link on this thread on recalibrating their grinders you wont be able to do it that way. There are some crazy videos on their grinders on youtube where people buy the machines or grinders and set the adjustable burr to it's finest setting and claim it's much better. In practice all many of them have done is changed the grind numbers they use not the grind itself. They also wont know what setting causes the burrs to rub and slow the motor down when the grinder is empty. Running like that for long or finer could damage the burrs. You could still check by running the grinder empty and then keeping it running as you set finer and finer one step at a time. Not sure if the newer parts can be fitted. The burrs will wear out at some point but I would have thought it would need an enormous quantity of beans for a home user. One of the reasons they also mention for the new burr is that it allows some adjustment for wear. They show the burrs under spares - could be that the dearer assembly is both burrs or they are charging way too much for one of them. They seem to have problems displaying the correct pictures. BUT AS I SAID they may not fit your model. Coffee Classic may know if they can be fitted and also provide part numbers to order off Sage. John -
  3. I'd hope people were bright enough to realise that but replacing that as well might be the only option. Looking at the first photo suspect I would try some double ended long hex keys to get the solenoid off and then a spanner on the fixing nut. The keys will have to be used the wrong way round so use an adjustable spanner on the short end. That will allow the unit to swing a bit allowing something to be used to grip elsewhere when the domed nut is removed. Once the whole unit is out dismantling the lot should be easier. A set of long combination spanners might be a good idea and a pair of long pump pliers. Many are too short really. Buy the longest you can find. There are some cheap 400mm ones about maybe even longer. Make sure they have a curve etc and serrations in the jaws. Some makers have odd ideas about what the jaws should look like. Maybe they should consider converting the fixing hole to a slot for maintenance as I would have thought various parts will need attention at some point. It looks like there is room for a couple of washers to get round using a slot. Going back to the nut with an arrow in the photo it may be possible to get an open ended spanner on the flat on the elbow - then another on the lock nut - if it is one. Hopefully there is room to slacken it off a bit. Maybe impossible without getting the entire assembly out or at least swinging it out once the solenoid is removed. John -
  4. I think the usual threadlockers need 200C plus to degrade them. A heatgun can do it as can a cigarette type lighter if the flame is in the right place. Problem in this case is that parts that shouldn't get this hot may well do. Only way to localise heat is a fine propane flame but heat will spread rapidly anyway. I'd assume they use a sealant suitable for drinking water but it doesn't need to have much strength really - more like the easy dismantle with hand tools type thread lockers. Trouble could still come by tightening too much while the stuff is still fluid. I think Dave has mentioned over tightening before. John -
  5. There could be a bit of a problem soldering it with low temperature solder - probably stainless and that needs the correct flux - also usually done with a decent propane flame Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/8032604171?iid=264441868159&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264441868159&targetid=855561001402&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006573&poi=&campaignid=6466521080&mkgroupid=85726690702&rlsatarget=pla-855561001402&abcId=1140486&merchantid=113583151&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Yfe8cik5wIVh6ztCh07eAHNEAQYASABEgKzhfD_BwE A search on the web and probably youtube will bring up more info. John -
  6. For a step in the dslr direction and general photography a bridge camera might be a better bet. It may even have built in flash or come with one. For indoor use your likely to need it. Bridge cameras can be very expensive just as other options can be. DSLR's do have some advantages over mirrorless but only in specialised areas really. For flexibility on both different lenses can be needed and high quality ones are expensive for both types. Zooms are generally used an this helps a lot. Personally I am a fan of Olympus for mirror less dslr lookalikes. Part of the reason for this is their range of "cheaper" lenses. They have also done some excellent mirrorless compacts in the past. I've no idea how good they are now. Like all they play the more pixels game as it tends to sell more cameras. Nikon caught Canon napping on sensor noise and quietly stole a lead - a pretty good lead as well. Last time I bought a dslr this had forced Canon to produce a new sensor for an entry level dslr. Left and odd situation - in some important ways the sensor was better than their prosumer camera. I find Canon controls tend to be more convenient to use than Nikon's. John -
  7. The Sage double has a height of about 25mm - that IMS's height is 32mm = a lot more coffee. Height and general shape is the best way to judge capacities as fill heights to suite particular machines can vary. @joey24dirt may know how much that one holds on Sage also if there are any shorter ones. IMS have been know to overstate capacity of baskets with this diameter and restate it specifically for La Spaziale at a lower figure. Some one on here should know what it holds on a DTP as there isn't any point in buying it unless it holds several grams more than Sages double. At 32mm high sounds like it does. John -
  8. I just checked some assumptions on the above. They seem to match what I expected. They run the steam boiler at 3 bar and infusion spends some time below that. In fact the gauge suggests that the infusion range is 0 to 3 bar. It would be interesting to know how much pre heat the HX section adds. I could get some idea with my fingers - maybe - but I'd suspect not a lot as any makes the boiler "appear to be larger". John -
  9. Afraid it doesn't make much sense to me either as I use dual boiler with an HX preheat on the feed to the brew boiler. This particular machine arrives set for a 10bar limit on brew pressure that the makers don't really want users to exceed so literally is an over pressure valve. It's pretty common for people to reset it to 8. Some one has done that to mine - blame the web. If they looked further they might have set 9. In real terms just leaving it at 10 is highly unlikely to have detrimental effects and would allow users to try it as it's intended to be used in volumetric mode. On this particular machine people also set up to brew at even lower pressures via pump control. So what is actually going on. The HX section is designed to add a certain amount of heat to the flow to the brew boiler over a limited range of flow rates. Providing the water flow remains in that range it wont flash off. At the end of a shot it will flash off at some point. On the other hand due to heat loss rates external to the HX section it might not - unlikely to be high enough. It all comes down to design and there has to be a limit to how much heat is added by the HX section for pretty obvious reasons. In practice it's likely to finish up helping rather than curing the problem it's trying to cure. Not sure where any flash off goes on mine - maybe be the 3 way empties the circuit or prevents any pressure build up after the shot has been pulled. Being me I noticed one other aspect about the review. That relates to steam boilers must have an over pressure valve. My steam boiler also uses PID and a thermal fuse and on the face of it no over pressure valve. In practice it has several - the seals on the pipes going to it. The reviewed machine pass but I wouldn't have much respect for a designer that didn't consider factors like this when the usual valve is omitted. Not a criticism of you Dave because when you mentioned this area to them they didn't say yes but ................ John -
  10. I suspect you are right about that. It needs to show the entire process including initially turning the steam on to get dry steam before actually steaming. Sound too. John
  11. Once these machines are steaming there isn't any heating problems. Brewing is different but many don't realise that getting the thermocoil hot makes a difference. One way of doing that is to steam first and then pull the shot as soon as the machine is ready. Not the way I did it on a BE but some one noticed that steaming had the same effect. Scaling might mess up water heating. On a dtp I would run an entire batch of descaler through the wand by setting it for water. It's the thermocoil that needs the descale and I would suspect that the water flows more slowly through the wand than through the grouphead. John -
  12. Your best bet for a bigger basket is probably this one https://www.theespressoshop.co.uk/en/GB/IMS-Spaziale-Competition-Filter-Basket-21g---B652TM32M/m-2024.aspx?PartnerID=22&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=UnitedKingdom&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI54rU6qWh5wIVzbHtCh175gb-EAQYASABEgIUNPD_BwE The rim size has to be reduced. I shudder to think how much it might hold on small baskets sized sage machines. There may also be a smaller version about. John -
  13. Monsooned Malabar - well into 2nd crack and oily when used. Early on I needed to pick a bean that would suite my wife and Redber gave graphical info on the usual acidty, body etc and tasting notes. The treatment the bean gets is said to reduce acidity and I fancied the idea of drinking an attempt at recreating coffee that was drunk in the UK when it came here via sailing ships. It's my regular drink. Redber's roast started getting all over the place but came more or less black and oily when it was ok. Current supplier brown, maybe a few traces of oil and coated after circa a week. Redber were getting complaints about it choking up grinders. My current roasted said yes it clumps - you can guess what grinders they use. I find it doesn't weighing in. It also didn't on the BE - bemused about that at the moment but haven't put any through it. Some other beans did clump though. I suspect people generally might not like it as I brew - I just want the dominant taste. If I cut the shot time from 30 to 20sec it goes sweet so with a bit of sugar is ideal for my wife, I don't use it. I taste chocolate if in a milk drink. As I drink it in an americano I'd say I taste coffee but a little smoother in an odd sort of way than commercial robusta blends. I've also used it in medium roast. Weaker drink so tends to open up flavours. Not strong enough for me really but few batches of beans gave the same taste particularly in the area of a sweet spicy kick that is sometimes mentioned. Some one on here mentioned that was probably down to bean quality - cupping score - roast level. They mentioned an agtron level should have made a note but didn't. Jampit would also cut it in the single - these turned out to be an estate near the Jampit one. Mandheling as well but I'm not keen on it's dominant taste. I understand some like it in milk. It can make an interesting weak americano but so far have only got that correct on the BE using grade a beans. Not managed to get the acidity right on the DB. Might be Niche but don't think so. This is what came out of the BE with MM every time I pushed the button with hardly any shot volume variation at all. I could see 5ml variation easily so a lot less than that. I check weigh every shot now. Daylight wouldn't pass through it. All from 9.4g. I use 13.5 in the DB now so stronger. I'd like to try a bit less but baskets are a problem. John -
  14. There are a couple of types of adapter about to convert euro to uk. One is some what heftier than the other and things fit firmly. I had a decent one arrive from another uk company that is actually in Italy but also rents an answering service in the UK. Also a decent one with a compressor from Germany. I rate MK plugs highly but wish they hadn't changed them. They have reduced the diameter of the wire clamp nut. Justified as the max wire size into a plug has been mmm "rationalised". Masterplug are pretty good and easy to get hold of. Some plugs just have a IEC stamp - avoid. They should have BS number on them. In some areas this doesn't stand for bull shite but some are better than others. John -
  15. If the OP is using a grinder that can produce a nice even central heap directly into the portafilter it might be best to forget cups even though they are fashionable now. That can be done on a mazzer mini if some stick on stops are put onto the portafilter holder. I used a funnel that fitted in the filter basket for ages and late switched to one rather like the Decent one but sold on amazon. The change did nothing at all. All I did was do a rather light pretamp with a 2 slope "distribution" tool and then tamped. They don't distribute anything really more give a square surface to tamp on. When beans were weighed in on the mini there wasn't any clumping worth bothering about - the antistatic grid had been removed. Removing declumpers etc from grinders may not be possible and some may not use a grid. I used a small weight on top of the beans as well. Serious reduction in pop corning and also kept bits in the main part of the grinder. Niche is another kettle of fish. I've tried all sorts and a few different beans now as well. Early on it may pay to tap the side of the can firmly to dislodge any grinds stuck to the sides. My cup needs washing at times, if down to that I knock them out onto the tamping mat and brush them in later. Natural rubber tamping mats help with use of a brush as the grinds don't stick. I then place the portafilter onto the cup and invert as neatly as I can followed by side to side, front to back and circular motions to try and get the grinds level. I'm getting better at doing that and if way out when the cup came off I did put it back on again. Often it still isn't level but low at one edge and higher at another. I use the handle of bean scoop to push the high to the low without compressing them. When there I use the same to compress them. If I think the low edge is still likely to be low / loose I push a tad more grinds in from the centre. Then leveller and tamp. Don't know why but I always tamp twice. I use a 15kg tamper but have recently added further tamp at around 20kg by leaning on it. Grinds also sometimes stick to the side of the leveller. A decent knock onto the tamping mat dislodges them and I sweep them in after using it. I used to use a 58mm and forked out for a 58.5. Pointless it is better to offset the 58 and run it around offset. My tamper is 58.5 but an offset firm polish with a 58mm does the same thing. John -
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