Jump to content

phario

Members
  • Posts

    333
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by phario

  1. Hi all, I have noticed that there does not seem to be any one location easily found on the internet which has the collected info of what Gaggia Classic models exist, their model numbers, and their characteristics. Lots of people ask again and again, and a central source is required. I do not know enough to list them all, but can some of you write what you know in the replies and I'll update the main post to include the details so that others may easily find it? Details we are looking for: Year Model numbers Recognisable features Any other historical notes of interest Sources (if easily available), e.g. images, official documents, etc. Paging @FairRecycler, @ratty, @MrShades
  2. Hi Daniel, I was actually most curious about this! Can you say more? What rewiring changes would you do? What is a digital in?
  3. Love this update. Thank you. I've seen the pre-heater coil mod for a few different cases now---it's quite challenging in the Gaggia. The other way to do it is to fashion a pre-heater box, and this is something seen around these parts:
  4. You guys are wonderfully resourceful. Great stuff. That switchbank is my least favourite part of the Classic. For a machine that's so repairable, the switchbank is the least repairable component.
  5. I guess it boils down to the fact that mechanical control is sometimes easier than electrical control. Regarding the use of dimmers, my understanding is that cheap dimmers can be effectively implemented with the standard vibration pumps and the only tricky business is that you may need to use a resistor. See comments by @Olek and @GrahamS regarding the 3300 Ohm resistor.
  6. Out of curiosity, why is this better than a dimmer?
  7. Hi, I think I understand. I re-wrote the image with the numbering from the more classic Gaggia Classic wiring diagram. Is this how you would describe it? So: Power switch off: Nothing connected Power switch on: (7, P, 8. ) all connected Brew switch off: (P, 2) connected Brew switch on: (1, P, 2) all connected Steam switch off: (P, 6) connected and (3, P) disconnected Steam switch on: (P, 6) disconnected and (3, P) connected
  8. Argh! Their diagram seems to be mislabeled. They have on the top row of the switchbank in the photo 1, 2, 3 ... whereas in the bottom image they have 1, 5, 3. Is the (2, 6) supposed to be swapped with (5, 9)? Can someone confirm what are the numbers that are supposed to go in the second diagram?
  9. Many thanks. Can you confirm: When steam switch is off, (P-6) is disconnected and (3-P) is disconnected When steam switch is on (P-6) is connected and (3-P) is connected Or does flipping the steam switch on connect (P-6) and (3-P) and they are disconnected otherwise?
  10. Hi, and as I puzzle out what you've said, I want to also ask another question that will illustrate just how ignorant I am: Consider the column marked 7-P-8. When the switch is flicked to 'on', does this mean that the signal from '7' is routed through 'P'? How is 'P' connected, if at all, to '8'? If I understand things correctly, it goes: Outlet live (negative) To Switchbank 7 Flicked to 'on' then allows current to proceed to 'P' directly below 'P' then goes to brew thermostat Brew thermostat to Steam thermostat Steam thermostat to boiler pin top right Current goes through all boiler pins, then finally to fuse to positive outlet terminal In this configuration, and with the steam switch off, doesn't current pass through the steam stat on its way to the heating elements?
  11. Here is a diagram of the Classic wiring. Looking from the back, let us write the terminals as: [code] 7 -- 5 -- 3 -- 1 P -- P -- P -- P 8 -- 6 -- 4 -- 2 [/code] Can someone explain to me how the (5, P, 6) and (3, P, 4) columns are connected?
  12. I had a contact with a university academic who apparently had stored the archives. I meant to ask him again if these could be recovered, but we might have to wait to the end of the academic year. Thanks for reviving this thread and reminding me.
  13. Looks great! Will take it at asking.
  14. Very cool and interesting though most people just do a dimmer mod to adjust pressure!
  15. I'll have to dig out those threads last year when they wee discussed. I could have sworn it was the older models but in any case, the easy way to tell is if the inside boiler plate is attached via individual tabs vs a longer segment. My understanding is that the ones with individual tabs are harder to repair. But you have tons more experience than me. I should say this is a minor thing. I think there are advantages to the pre 2004 models as well. I think I price the base machines at £150. Some members routinely refurbish machines and sell them for £170-200 so it sort of depends how polished it is. Certainly if it only cost you £25 for components and you could sell it at £170 it might be worth it.
  16. The temp sensor is like £5-10 shipped. The dead light is more complicated but yiu can contact various members for the little halogen light that needs to be installed (say £10). In my view, the more "worrisome" aspect is the fact that these issues might be indicative that the machine hasn't been maintained, so images of the inside, showing the state of the corrosion (if any) might be better. Assuming it's just the light and the sensor, maybe £100 to £110. Plus I'm not a huge fan of the pre-2004 models because they can have issues with spot welds failing.
  17. £150 base £30 gauge £10 wand £10 service £50-70 PID £250-270.
  18. @iJim Great work! Some questions if you don't mind? Quite intriguing to store under the machine! I don't think I've seen a Silvia PID build with that idea. Most people prefer storing near the pump. Any reason why you didn't do it within the main compartment? What did you end up using for a temperature gauge? The thing that bugs me about Wifi connectivity is the fact that it makes the physical switch obsolete. Am I correct in assuming that you have it switched on all the time, and if you want to manually switch it on and off while in front of the machine, you reach instead for the TP Link controller? Basically I would want a WiFi setup where all the Silvia switches are still functional but now with additional option of Wifi. Could you do that with a retractive button?
  19. I would rate the base machine with slim drip tray at £200-£220. As @simplyme notes, it might be a bit higher. On top of this, I would add £50-70 for the PID. So the £300 estimate is about right, though potentially a bit on the high side. I could see it going for as little as £250 pre-pandemic, and as high as £300. It's always tough to price in things like the tamper since people don't really price these accurately when they sell it altogether. By the way, I'm looking for a 58.4mm tamper in case that ones of those.
  20. Not really. I'm not a huge fan of the aesthetics of the 2003 (just that badge) but 2003 vs 2005 is largely immaterial.
  21. I've come to recognise that the v3 steam wand is actually a pretty good upgrade over the v2 wand. I price it as follows: Base machine: 150gbp PID: 40gbp Steam wand: 40gbp Extras: 20gbp So perhaps aim for 250gbp or thereabouts? Cracks in the water tank are honestly close to unavoidable. Most machines seem to develop at least hairline cracks.
  22. Both @hotmetal and @AdG essentially filled you in on similar details. Basically, in order to understand the origins of the Silvia vs. Classic debate, you have to go back in history and understand the situation in the late 90s when the Silvia was introduced. It was, as I understand it, the first prosumer-grade espresso machine that had significant build quality. It was also the hobby-enthusiast machine of choice, and spawned off interest into do-it-yourself PID controllers and modifications. A lot of this intersects with the early internet discussion forums. At the time, the Silvia was very affordable, and the Classic was new and untrusted. So most of the debates you will read about are dated from the early 2000s, when people are very attached to the Silvia. So that's why a lot of older reviews still extol the virtues of the Silvia. Since then, a lot has changed. Anyways, getting to why I recommend the Classic. A much better used market Cheaper pricing Wider availability of mods (PID) Friendlier profile in most domestic kitchens. The GC has a smaller footprint that's more suitable for the smaller kitchens. It's not as heavy and easier to move around. The Silvia has more significant vibrations. Older models of the Silvia have a heat shield with chrome that peels (the newer ones are in ABS plastic in black). Silvia has well documented problems with rusting iron base The Silvia has a relatively high probability of burning out the boiler elements---do a search for this to see how many people have had to have them replaced. The older Silvias, in addition, have boiler elements that cannot be easily replaced. It's harder to show others in your household how to use a Silvia because of the temperature surfing and/or likelihood of boiler burnout. Without a PID, the Silvia is very finnicky in obtaining the right temperature---which is why there are so many posts recommending a PID The Silvia has some advantages, including: Much stronger steaming Better temperature stability Larger boiler More "solid build" and more spacious interior To be specific, the Silvia **feels** more solid, but in my opinion, that's not necessarily the same as better "durability" (in light of the rusting base, peeling heat shield, easily-burned out boiler elements). Also, the smaller GC boiler and stronger heating element is, in many ways, well suited for domestic use. It requires less time to get to stability and faster time to prepare brews. The Silvia is more temperature stable, but in my opinion I prefer the faster preparation times. To be clear, most people recommend to pick up a **used** Classic, and I'm comparing **used** Classics vs **used** Silvias. The debate of what you should purchase new is a different story, and the advice is that if you're going into the range of new prices, you're better off looking at a dual boiler system. .
  23. That's a tricky question, and you need to do your own homework because it's a long discussion and there are many discussions around on this if you Google "Gaggia Classic vs. Silvia". As someone who owns both, a used Gaggia Classic is overall the better machine for most people, compared to a used Silvia.
  24. Maybe a dumb question but isn't the thermocouple amp sufficient to read the K type thermocouple and convert to digital? Are you using it in addition to the ads115? How does that work?
×
×
  • Create New...