Jump to content

phario

Members
  • Content Count

    330
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

139 Excellent

1 Follower

About phario

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Love this update. Thank you. I've seen the pre-heater coil mod for a few different cases now---it's quite challenging in the Gaggia. The other way to do it is to fashion a pre-heater box, and this is something seen around these parts:
  2. You guys are wonderfully resourceful. Great stuff. That switchbank is my least favourite part of the Classic. For a machine that's so repairable, the switchbank is the least repairable component.
  3. I guess it boils down to the fact that mechanical control is sometimes easier than electrical control. Regarding the use of dimmers, my understanding is that cheap dimmers can be effectively implemented with the standard vibration pumps and the only tricky business is that you may need to use a resistor. See comments by @Olek and @GrahamS regarding the 3300 Ohm resistor.
  4. Out of curiosity, why is this better than a dimmer?
  5. Hi, I think I understand. I re-wrote the image with the numbering from the more classic Gaggia Classic wiring diagram. Is this how you would describe it? So: Power switch off: Nothing connected Power switch on: (7, P, 8. ) all connected Brew switch off: (P, 2) connected Brew switch on: (1, P, 2) all connected Steam switch off: (P, 6) connected and (3, P) disconnected Steam switch on: (P, 6) disconnected and (3, P) connected
  6. Argh! Their diagram seems to be mislabeled. They have on the top row of the switchbank in the photo 1, 2, 3 ... whereas in the bottom image they have 1, 5, 3. Is the (2, 6) supposed to be swapped with (5, 9)? Can someone confirm what are the numbers that are supposed to go in the second diagram?
  7. Many thanks. Can you confirm: When steam switch is off, (P-6) is disconnected and (3-P) is disconnected When steam switch is on (P-6) is connected and (3-P) is connected Or does flipping the steam switch on connect (P-6) and (3-P) and they are disconnected otherwise?
  8. Hi, and as I puzzle out what you've said, I want to also ask another question that will illustrate just how ignorant I am: Consider the column marked 7-P-8. When the switch is flicked to 'on', does this mean that the signal from '7' is routed through 'P'? How is 'P' connected, if at all, to '8'? If I understand things correctly, it goes: Outlet live (negative) To Switchbank 7 Flicked to 'on' then allows current to proceed to 'P' directly below 'P' then goes to brew thermostat Brew thermostat to Steam thermostat Steam thermostat to boiler p
  9. Here is a diagram of the Classic wiring. Looking from the back, let us write the terminals as: [code] 7 -- 5 -- 3 -- 1 P -- P -- P -- P 8 -- 6 -- 4 -- 2 [/code] Can someone explain to me how the (5, P, 6) and (3, P, 4) columns are connected?
  10. I had a contact with a university academic who apparently had stored the archives. I meant to ask him again if these could be recovered, but we might have to wait to the end of the academic year. Thanks for reviving this thread and reminding me.
  11. Looks great! Will take it at asking.
  12. Very cool and interesting though most people just do a dimmer mod to adjust pressure!
  13. I'll have to dig out those threads last year when they wee discussed. I could have sworn it was the older models but in any case, the easy way to tell is if the inside boiler plate is attached via individual tabs vs a longer segment. My understanding is that the ones with individual tabs are harder to repair. But you have tons more experience than me. I should say this is a minor thing. I think there are advantages to the pre 2004 models as well. I think I price the base machines at £150. Some members routinely refurbish machines and sell them for £170-200 so it sort of dep
  14. The temp sensor is like £5-10 shipped. The dead light is more complicated but yiu can contact various members for the little halogen light that needs to be installed (say £10). In my view, the more "worrisome" aspect is the fact that these issues might be indicative that the machine hasn't been maintained, so images of the inside, showing the state of the corrosion (if any) might be better. Assuming it's just the light and the sensor, maybe £100 to £110. Plus I'm not a huge fan of the pre-2004 models because they can have issues with spot welds failing.
  15. £150 base £30 gauge £10 wand £10 service £50-70 PID £250-270.
×
×
  • Create New...