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espressotechno

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Everything posted by espressotechno

  1. These machines are "B&W engineer" only for repair or servicing. Do a Google for the B&W UK agents ( I can't remember whi they are) who can then advise you......
  2. Vendparts in Skipton repair PCBs: Fairly quick turmaround & cost just under £100 in total.
  3. Just fit a new pumphead....They're not expensive & life's too short......
  4. Error 4: Heat sensor on the steam thermoblock is defective. ( Steam thermoblock is the smaller one, at the front.)
  5. The rubber o-ring is probably damaged. Just buy & fit a new one- it's an industry standard part. Use teflon tape to seal it. Ebay is your friend
  6. Teknivorm Moccamaster filter machines are relatively "bulletproof" imho. Spares & repairs easy to source.
  7. A 17mm socket + long bar can be more effective: Jerk the bar - don't pull it
  8. A faulty solid state relay can be difficult to diagnose, as there's "nothing to see" ,if not fitted with neons (as many are).
  9. As the probe cable goes direct to the pcb and the pcb has been verified OK, then there's an earthing defect somewhere......
  10. If the pump stops when the level probe lead is "earthed" against the boiler casing, then the probe is faulty.
  11. The HX tubes, flowmeters, etc have their own water system which does not feed off the boiler water. The mains inlet manifold splits the water supply into 2 feeds - one for the HX system, the other for the boiler. The boiler pressure = steam pressure @ around 1.0bar.
  12. Red & black are water level probes. The temp sensor is the small grey one (black lead) next to the red probe. The big black rubber cover hides the boiler safety valve.
  13. Either will do. The espressoshop valve doesn't have a "splutter catch tube", but any start-up splutters soon evaporate from the boiler heat.... Use teflon tape when fitting.
  14. The boiler element will have the total kw load stamped on the base flange.
  15. It can be difficult achieving a leak-free rebuild. Just buy a new one, it's a standard a/v valve, they're cheap enough. Ebay is your friend....
  16. Cracked/split HX tubes tend to occur on coffee carts which have been in winter storage & exposed to icy conditions. The ice will easily crack a copper tube or brazed joint. Ice in a flowmeter will pop the lid off & distort it. Water inlet solenoid valves are also susceptible to ice damage.
  17. If it's from a hard water area, then an HX descale may be needed: Probably not a DIY job, ihmo.
  18. If you're going to use it for business, then a gas safety cert. and boiler pressure test & cert. wil be necessary.
  19. Check that all the earth cables connections are firmly attached to the chassis & that the chassis earth wire/mains connection is nice & tight.
  20. Only parts of value are the electronics: Touchpads & control PCB (also cheap to post !) You'll need to quote the Gicar/Giemme codes labelled on these parts.
  21. Email Jura HQ and ask for a Czech manual for your Jura model.
  22. A slow filling up/overflow is usually due to a leaky inlet solenoid valve. Dismantle & clean it out. If you're in a hard water area, a wee descale of the valve may be necessary....or fit a new one if the rubber pad on the piston looks damaged. PS The boiler will need to be drained first (!)
  23. Sell it for spares on Gumtree or EBay.... PS: Don't buy another Brasilia ! (re. my earlier post)
  24. Brasilia went bust several years ago, so spares are now very difficult to find. Imho a replacement boiler will not be available in the UK.
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