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_shakeyjake_

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About _shakeyjake_

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Everywhere, but nowhere
  • Interests
    Coffees and or machines
  • Occupation
    Kitchen Designer
  1. I did look into that. Wouldn't be complicated but wow they are expensive! Even the normal valves aren't low cost item but I guess can't be expected. For the money I've spent on it, probably not worth it. If I had got it for less might have been not so bad of an investment.
  2. Thanks for the complement, nice to hear (read)! I've heard of that issue before on the Gaggia Classics. I think because of the way the valve head or seat is designed it "cuts" into the brass seat and eventually wears it to the point the steam valve leaks. So always tighten minimal amount on steam and water valves. I think on the next machine, i'd love something with those joystick type steam and water valves. Look so much more user-friendly and quick to operate.
  3. I know what you mean. Seems like a straightforward process but there's a knack to it all. Noted on the water temp. I was watching your video yesterday about setting the Expansion Valve on the Minima and you did it when cold (or set the boiler to not heat). If its tested and set to 9bar when cold, would it not actually sit higher when warm, because of expansion? Would it not make more sense to set it when warmed up to fully functional temperature? So that you get the 9bar exactly.
  4. Can conform, you guys know what your talking about. Tried without basket. Didn’t leak. Perfect!
  5. Can conform, you guys know what your talking about. Tried without basket. Didn’t leak. Perfect!
  6. OK, no basket. Will try that. Should I fill the portafilter with water first or just attach it dry and test?
  7. Hi! Thanks for the quick reply. To expand upon what I do and don't do. -Always have kept the basket in, so it seals properly. Should I be doing this? I only assumed I should because it Should seal better (clearly not at the moment!) -Group gasket is very new. I overhauled the machine only a month or two ago. This was replaced, so should be OK. I do also pre fill the portafilter/gauge with water. Should this be done? I assumed I should to get a more accurate reading because of the lack of air. I could be wrong in thinking this? Thoughts?
  8. I've had a bit of an odd outcome every time I try to check the OPV setting on my ISOMAC Millennium. I have a pressure gauge that I fit to the portafilter. When locked into the grouphead, water somehow flows past the grouphead seal so I can't get an accurate pressure reading. When I do normal backflush routines, this never happens. Always seals. What am I doing incorrectly? Why would this happen?
  9. Maybe I'm a simpleton, but I usually just knock the porterfilter on the worktop a couple of times and everything levels out. Then tamp it. Will that not solve the problem of uneven loading into the basket? Even easier with a bottomless portafilter.
  10. No real update for the ISOMAC at the moment but I've been passed a wiring diagram for the ISOMAC Millenium which seems much better than the one I found. I thought it would be handy to share. A user on here called @Fredrik had to replace his control box in his ISOMAC Millennium and was supplied a Gicar model that is equivalent to what it originally came with and within came this wiring diagram. My Millenium came fitted with a Giemme control box but they seem to be interchangeable. Of note, DavecUK's review machine had a Gicar control box from what I remember. So either they switched them around depending on manufacturing run or some other reason. If you have a stock ISOMAC Millennium, without the mains water connection kit fitted, or have one fitted and want to revert back to a tank fed operation, it will be handy to have this diagram to revert the wiring. As well, if you re having issues with your machine and need to troubleshoot the wiring, this will be helpful! Here's said drawing: [ATTACH=CONFIG]39253[/ATTACH] Edit: The image is quite small on here. My copy is much larger so just ping me a PM and I can message it directly. Edit Edit: Heres a PDF. It's too large to attach but you can view/download it from my Dropbox. https://www.dropbox.com/s/whivsaxn0ggh9y6/Isomac%20Control%20box%20ProElInd%20to%20Gicar.pdf?dl=0
  11. That is so cool. I just did a bit of googling, you can get one with a steam arm!
  12. I tend to do a water only back flush most days/everyother day, after coffee making. Not necessarily needed but helps keep it clean without use of detergent. I do a proper detergent clean (puly caf I think) once a month. You may get away with a longer space between cleaning. Recommendations seem to vary. I use a timer plug on mine too. Means you’ve got nice warm cups and machine when you get up! Such a good investment.
  13. It’s not a huge amount of maintenance to be honest. I have recently got an e61 group head based machine. Once you get your head around how it works it’s easy. Yes, you do have to grease the lever every now and again after cleaning but it’s a process that takes 15 minutes at most. And out of the few months I’ve had mine only done it once. Both machines will need cleaning. Either back-flushing for the Mara or what ever the process is for the sage. And they both will need descaling. The greasing of the lever cam is the only extra maintenance.
  14. Hmm. It might be grind level then? You can find the fineness of grind can change with different roasts. If it’s got a little finer it might contribute to the higher pressure built up. That coupled with lack of venting of pressure.
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