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AndyDClements last won the day on May 16 2020

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  1. I keep a 500ml bottle of water in the fridge, which at the moment is about the same temp as coming out of the tap (ground temp), I'd say that's the better way to do a taste comparison. It will taste different and you'll notice the difference, much as if you were tasting a bottle of some shop-bought stuff and that's because you've grown accustomed to the tap water, like when lockdown hit and there was less traffic on the main road nearby, it seemed odd and it was the lack of the noise which I don't normally notice.
  2. Well the say every day is a school day, I hadn't even realised the functionality to "follow" existed here, probably because I doubt I'll ever need/want it (whether it's this forum, or any other) but now I know.
  3. I'm with @Wilkins1kc that it seems unlikely that you can take a single-phase machine and change to 3-phase, my caveat to that being unless of course the motor is actually built for three-phase and Mazzer instead made it so that it could be run on single-phase. At a very basic level, you need more electrical inputs to a 3-phase motor. So that's different power supply, different switches etc.
  4. Hi, do you mean why does flushing water out that way work when the steam function doesn't? The steam valve port is right on the top of the boiler, so it normally only allows steam out, which is forced out by the boiler having heated to way past 100decC. Normal operation of the machine is that you keep the steam valve closed at lower temperatures so it doesn't let out liquid water. As to why I's said to push water out that way, water being more dense than steam has more motive force to move anything rather like how wind can move sand but a river is far more effective at moving sand. Steam
  5. +1 for what @The Systemic Kid said, and I'd add that I'd trust a 15yr old Gaggia part over a generic item that's new (if you were to buy non-genuine).
  6. @DuskIt's a cone of metal butting up to a ring of metal, so a tiny area of contact to form the seal. The cone has a wear groove form over time, or worse if any solid particle happens to get into that section as the valve is being closed. It's also a sealed unit, not designed to be repaired /serviced. Compare that to the Pavoni Europiccola steam valve which has rubber O rings, designed to be replaced periodically. If yours has started leaking very early it may not have actually failed, it may just be a particle (such as a tiny bit of scale) has got between the two surfaces. It's worth fl
  7. @hubcap I'd guess that @Bullit121 is basing the 6m change on what Osmio recommend, which is what I've also done (one change as only purchased May 2020). I dare say I could push that out to 12m, as winter time it's c6l / day, summer was probably more like twice that, but I do have water that makes @DavecUK's look positively soft (knocking on for 400mg/l). I had done the 5m change thinking a more clogged RO membrane means the pump has to work harder, but 5yrs for £300-£400 (who knows what price will be in 3 yrs time) Vs 10 filter changes at £50 per time, maybe the economic and environmentally
  8. @thomaschoq Hi, this https://www.kaffeewiki.de/wiki/La_Pavoni_Espresso_Plus may help, the pump is shown in the 9th image down on the RHS of the page. The pump is the red unit with wires at the top, also in the 10th image but doesn't really help give perspective of size or placement). It's a fairly common pump, if you are a competent handy-man you may find it just needs to be pulled apart and reassembled (taking appropriate safety measures as it works on mains voltage electricity).
  9. I think that on those pneumatic ones, the male section is m12 but the nuts that secure the pipe to the fitting are less than 12mm.
  10. One of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-steel-coffee-filter-kaapi-coffee-filter-south-indian-coffee-filter/383870172695?hash=item596071fe17:g:LnsAAOSwxhZfENWR
  11. I now checked some tap & die kits, @HDAV if you go this route, you'll probably need to purchase a suitable 12mm die as most DIY kits will not include M12 x 1.0. I looked on Machine Mart and even their 76 piece metric set has just two versions of m12, the 1.5 and 1.25, it does not go as fine as 1.0mm. Bear in mind that basic metric sets have only 16 pieces and generally just include the standard thread in the most common sizes. Machine mart do sell a 110 piece set (laser 4554) that incudes M12x1.0 but at £209 it's not what I expect most DIYers would have gone for.
  12. One of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spare-Hydraulic-Metric-Tube-NUT-for-Compression-Fitting-Couplings-Union-M-Pipe/400360934486?hash=item5d375f0c56:g:X-sAAMXQeW5TYU5S Finally realise m12x1.0, I have some (not pretty chrome ones) they are the same as m12 female brake union/nut on a car.
  13. If there were two very different businesses then one can legitimately be VAT registered and one not, I knew somebody who has that arrangement. One business breaks old cars for parts, not many each year. The other business sells new car pats and performs mechanical servicing. So if for example you purchase a part for £100 from a broken car, you pay £100, if you have the other firm obtain and fit, then you pay the VAT registered firm, they "buy" the part at £100 but when it is invoiced to the customer and attracts VAT (so costs the customer £120) just as the labour costs. If those firms wer
  14. I'm with @Mrboots2u , a mate had a comparable situation. Here's the HMRC (horses mouth) answer. So the surgery are VAT exempt, it means they cannot reclaim VAT paid, they do not charge VAT etc. It does not mean they don't pay VAT. It would be slightly different if the service was to supply them with equipment which is then passed on to the clients, but cleaning doesn't seem to fit that scenario. In essence it's no different that if they go into a supermarket and buy a packet of choccy biscuits. they pay VAT on those. A VAT registered business could claim back the VAT, the surgery ca
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