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jimbojohn55

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jimbojohn55 last won the day on March 25

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  1. On with the teardown, removing the lock ring with a few careful taps and a three leg oil filter wrench. this allows for a closer look at the discoloured brass, much of it appears to be an oxidised layer under the clear lacquer.
  2. The rusted in circlip actually proved quite straight forward, with a soak in penetrating oil overnight and prying it with a scriber and screwdriver it came out quite easily. next popped the group, piston and shower screen into a jug of pulycaf for the initial clean up.
  3. And the prize inside is of course a rusted in steel circlip
  4. On with the pimp, group strip down, pass me a shovel
  5. So now the neighbour has stopped singing and holding a candle on their balcony I can concentrate on more important things FFS 🙄 The pressure gauge has a cracked face and some discolouration of the surround, so tapped off the bezel using a small hammer and a flat washer to work against the bezels edge all the way round. Then pop in a replacement glass and holding the gauge face down force the bezel back on, after cleaning up the parts.
  6. So the pressurestat on these is a quality bit of kit, and engineering, I knew that the pstat was not working and as suspected on closer inspection it was not possible to blow air through the pipe, a quick wiggle with a pressicion tool that took several house to make sorted that. I took the pstat apart just to check the microswitch was working, which it was.
  7. The element on these has a copper shroud , in place to promote the flow of heated water circulating around the boiler
  8. ok so on with the strip down and a light descale
  9. All of them can do the business, the post millennium 51mm groups are fine , just treat the plastic group liner as a serviceable item, they do wear and warp occasionally, the design was part of an attempt to reduce over heating issues with the plastic piston which worked but they found that it occasionally worked loose so they switched back to brass. I have a plastic piston (original in a 97 Euro) that came loose and I put it back carefully with a bit of ptfe tape and its still going strong. The pre 74 pavs with a brass liner and brass piston and dual element are supposed to be the most thermally stable because of the extra brass and you can switch to 300w element, interestingly someone has started making new brass liners which may fit post millennium machines, I've got both machines in the workshop so will find out in a few weeks.
  10. Hmm after much thought about the music to pimp by and having just heard the Charles has corona I think I will go with
  11. The brass pavs are not all brass, in particular the base is brass plated steel so takes the most damage. Im probably not going to do a total refinish on this one as it starts to get hideously expensive, for example a replacement base would cost 180 Euro !!! so the existing base will be pimped
  12. The lever is close fitting with no waggle !
  13. Short boiler cap has a brass insert for the screw threads
  14. Ok so in the age of lockdowns and mindless rants on the forum I thought it was about time to impose another over detailed pimp. 1986 Brass Pav - never been restored or serviced - not in great condition but I've seen a lot worse - so on with the mindless condition details 🖕
  15. Subjective however a forum member did some tests with a temp probe in the puck and measured the group temp at the same time, he found that to get the water on the puck at 94 c he found the group needed to b at 75 c - now the trick is that the pav group shows different temps at the same time depending on where your taking the reading, the lower part heating up first the best bet is to be driven by taste. Using a pav to its best ability requires many variables, just change one thing a time, and keep reading good luck
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