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goodcoffeemadcity

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Everything posted by goodcoffeemadcity

  1. Thanks, that's exactly what I did. The logo is attached with three pins through the body, you just bend them up to remove it, then once wrapped I used the pins to mark the wrap by poking it from the inside so I knew where to put the badge back on.
  2. Nice work @Kyle T, looks good! I've had varying degrees of success with painting things in the past which is why I opted for the wrap, I feel like it's probably a bit easier than painting too so if you find the paint starts to chip and want to try the wrap I'd recommend it! The wrap seems to be holding up fine so far with daily use and cleaning, no issues. Here it is in action today (any excuse to show off a half decent rosetta 😆 ).
  3. Hi Alex, thanks for your reply and the info, interesting stuff. Regarding the self cleaning function, I assume that cleans internal pipework etc, what parts would need to be cleaned by the user, just the water tank? The other thing I wondered was does the machine have to be certified or tested in any way by an external body to make sure it does what it says it does and that it's producing safe to drink water? Also wondering how often will the Sküma filters need changing (obviously usage and water hardness dependant) and how much will the filters cost? Apologies if I've missed this info in the thread already. edit : found this on your website, around 12 months and £35
  4. Cheers! It's actually easy to clean and way better than the stainless body which I could never get to look clean, it doesn't show fingerprints etc, just a once over with a wipe and it's good, time will tell how cleaning effects it but the wrap is meant to withstand everything that's thrown at a car bodywork so you'd imagine it will be fine. The only thing is being black it shows dust a lot more than before. Not a big deal though.
  5. Haha I bet it did! I think wrapping a vehicle would be a bit beyond my capabilities/patience. 17 year old me would definitely have given it a go on my first car though 😆
  6. A couple of people were interested in more info so I've written a sort of guide on how I did it. Hopefully it's useful and coherent! Tools / Materials Vinyl wrap, there’s lots of different brands/types of wrap available and you should look in to them to decide what’s best for you and your budget, consider ease of use, colours/finishes available, availability in small quantities, cost etc. As far as I read in my research Avery Dennison and 3M seem to be the best and the easiest to work with but are pricey, I ended up going with a brand called KPMF and used their air release wrap which incorportates air channels and is designed to let you smooth out any air bubbles easily. This is still a well regarded premium wrap but not as expensive as 3M and Avery, plus it was easier to source in a small quantity, I got it here and it cost about £21 for 1m x 1.54m delivered : https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/vehicle-wrapping/matt-wrapping-film - Cheap wraps are probably best avoided as they’ll be difficult to work with and give poor results/longevity. A felt edged squeegee for vinyl wrap, loads on eBay and amazon for a few quid, or here https://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/sign-tools-accessories/squeegees Decent scalpel or craft knife Cutting board Metal ruler Tape measure Hairdryer or heat gun Isopropyl alcohol Prep & Planning I’d advise doing some reading on vinyl wrap if you don’t know much about it and having a look on youtube for some videos/guides on wrapping cars and you’ll get an idea of the basics, how wrap applies to things and some dos and don’ts. CK wraps is a popular channel. There will be an application guide from your wrap manufacturer as well which is worth a read, KPMF have one for air release which you can find on google. They also have a youtube video. You should plan what parts you want to wrap and how many pieces of wrap you want to do it in. More pieces means less pulling the wrap around corners which is easier, but it means you’ll have seams which won’t give you as a clean a look, unless they’re on straight edges then you probably won’t notice them. The parts I did mine in were : Front of the main body, from the back recess all the way round to the opposite back recess Back panel Top plate Inside left Inside right Inside bottom PID front/back/top/bottom Measure out all the parts you plan to wrap separately allowing enough extra to pull the wrap over edges, under the bottom etc and some extra for when you inevitably don’t get the wrap straight pulling it round the body. I allowed 5cm on each side for the main body. I used the website https://www.cutlistoptimizer.com/ to plan how I’d cut the wrap and with a 1m x 1.54m piece you’ll be able to have three attempts at the main body if you need it (the hardest/biggest part) while still having plenty for the other pieces. To get the machine ready I removed the top and separated the filling funnel and the chrome cup plate (held together with two screws) as I wanted to wrap that plate too. Remove the drip tray, water reservoir, switch bank (number the connectors!) and steam knob. You’ll need to take the Gaggia badge off the front which is attached with three pins through holes in the body, you’ll see them looking down inside the front of the machine, you just bend the pins straight with a screwdriver or similar and it pulls off. Pull the water pipes up in to the machine. Aside from that you could remove the steam valve if you want, it would make it a bit easier but I didn’t and it was fine as you’ll just make a cut in the wrap as you get to that part to allow the spindle through. If you have a PID you’ll need to remove it to wrap the back panel, for everything else you can remove it or just secure it inside the machine. You’ll need to clean the body with isopropyl alcohol so there are no oils or residues causing issues for the wraps adhesive. Wrapping I did it over a few days, starting with the easier parts to get an idea of how to work with the wrap as this was my first time wrapping anything. I started with the top plate and the PID (although the PID isn’t that easy). Next I did the back, then the main body and lastly the insides. You will need time and patience! The top plate is easy, you can just lay the wrap out, peel off the backing and pretty much place the plate over it, use the squeegee to smooth it out, don’t press too hard or it closes the air channels in the wrap for removing air bubbles, fold the wrap on the under side of the plate so the edges are covered and you’ll need to make some relief cuts on the corners so it folds underneath without creases on the edges. Then once you’re happy you can heat the wrap with a hairdryer/heat gun and this activates the adhesive, you’ll need to squeegee again as you do this as sometimes air bubbles appear at this point. Wrap can be repositioned and applied as you go which you’ll need to do, the creases should squeegee out from doing that unless it gets really folded or screwed up. You’ll need to make relief cuts as you go to keep the wrap straight and applying properly. The main body is the hardest part, I took two goes at it, the first time, I found because it’s a large piece of wrap it was sticking to itself, other parts of the machine and my desk, it ended up getting very creased where I had to keep unsticking it so I started again. The second time I only peeled half the backing off and got the first half done before peeling off the rest and wrapping the second half. This worked well and I’d highly recommend doing this. For the main body you’ll start at the back recess and work your way round, if you’re not removing the steam valve then start on the side without the steam valve. Go slow and do bit by bit, use the squeegee lightly as you go and keep pulling it round and applying until you have no air bubbles in each part, I found that pulling the wrap outwards a little but not completely tight and squeegeeing as I applied it gave the best results. This might not be the best technique, I’m not sure, but it worked for me. When you reach the middle you’ll need to make some cuts for the inside of the machine so the wrap can be pulled round straight. You can make a cut inside the switchbank hole to fold it in there, and when you reach the steam valve spindle you’ll need to make a cut to let that through and still apply the wrap around the hole. For holes like on the back and where the steam knob is, I used a scalpel knife and cut them out once the wrap was applied but before heating the wrap. With edges you can fold the wrap over/under as best as you can making relief cuts in hidden places if needed, where straight edges meet another part to be wrapped, for example the edge between the left outside of the body and the left inside of the body, you can fold over the wrap from the outside of the body to the inside say 2 cm which gives you a covered edge, you can then tidy the line on the inside but cutting excess off with a knife/metal rule, and then wrap the inside with a separate piece up to the edge but not folding the wrap over to the outside this time, so you will end up with a seam at the top of the inside, but it’s not noticeable as it’s on an edge and the inside. Alternatively you can cut the wrap along the edge and have the edges silver. I did this on the bottom because I quite liked the silver edges, plus it’s easier. I actually did it on the top too but then changed my mind and applied a thin edge piece which worked quite well, not as clean as folded over edges would have been though. With recesses and raised parts on the inside/back you can use the squeegee to make the wrap sit smooth in to the recess and start laying the wrap at these points so you’re not trying to stretch the wrap in to the recess if that makes sense, it’s actually pretty easy wrapping these parts of the machine as they’re flat and relatively small. You can cut the excess along the edges with a knife once it’s applied. Once you’ve wrapped it and heated the wrap to activate the adhesive, you can tidy the fold under/over lines with a knife if you want to, then you’ll need to put the badge back on, I used the pins of the badge to mark the wrap by poking it from the inside and then just pressed the pins through from the outside and bent them back to secure it. Then reassemble, wipe it down and you’re done. I’m sure I’ve forgotten things but if you plan properly, do some research and go slow you’ll work it out as you go. Any questions post them here and I’ll try to answer.
  7. Thanks all! Pretty happy with how it came out. Depends how good you are with spray paint but I wouldn't bother personally, it would be more work I think and definitely harder to get a good finish. No it doesn't leave any residue you can remove the wrap and have it back to normal no issues. The wrap can be repositioned as you're working with it too so if you mess it up as you're going you can peel it off and start again.
  8. Cheers @DavecUK & @larkim Do you want to know anything specific @larkim? I can tell you it's a bit of a pain in the ass to do 😆 Don't want to put you off though it just takes time and patience. I took inspiration from this reddit thread : https://www.reddit.com/r/gaggiaclassic/comments/grpu6k/wrapping_your_gaggia_in_car_vinyl/ - although I didn't do it exactly the same way, for example I decided to leave the bottom edges silver which I actually like the look of, if I change my mind I can always put thin slices of wrap over them or paint them black with a paint pen, also I used a different brand of vinyl wrap called KPMF air release which was cheaper than the super premium stuff (3M or Avery Dennison) but is still considered a premium and good quality wrap.
  9. Thanks for the info @SkumaWater, I'm curious about a few things, two questions spring to mind initially, I'm not clued up on how RO systems work but I assume some parts have to stay hygienic or be cleaned intermittently to make sure bacteria doesn't accumulate and the water the machine outputs is always safe and healthy to drink, how it this achieved with Skuma? Also given that Skuma is a new company/device, it's always difficult to know what relevant credentials, experience or background the people designing the product have, if that will translate into making a good product and why someone should take a bit of a risk and choose them against a proven company/product in the market already, in this case Osmio. I guess relating to both of these questions, does the product have to have any type of external validation or checks before you can bring it to market? Not trying to interrogate you just generally interested if you could give a bit more info on this.
  10. Thanks for the reply. I think you're right in that the adjustment just isn't that great on Mazzers, at least on SJs anyway. I wonder if anyone has switched the SJ springs for softer ones and if this would make adjusting easier or would cause any issues like possibly the collar moving with the vibrations of grinding. Mine is an SJ not a mini so I already have SJ burrs. I've seen people talking about 0.1g retentions with the lens hood mod but I definitely don't achieve that on mine, I wonder if I need a different lens hood. Did you have the anti static grid removed to achieve that retention?
  11. I've wanted to do this for a while and finally got around to wrapping the Classic this week, I've thought about having it powder coated before but didn't think it was worth the cost, wrapping it is surprisingly cheap, probably cost me about £25 in the end plus my time to do it. I was toying with white but ended up going with matt black and I think it came out pretty well! You definitely can't tell it's wrapped unless you look super close for seams or underneath. Wrapped the PID box to match too. The only thing is it's going to show dust now a lot! If anyone is interested about how I did it, what I used etc feel free to ask questions and I'll try to explain.
  12. I did initially set the zero point by winding down until they touched and then backing off until it stops chirping. I know the rough area for espresso for my grinder, it's really just adjusting a hair giving changes of 5-10 seconds which doesn't seem right, I think changing the burrs is the first port of call.
  13. I use the lid of an ikea tupperware container, not the exact same size but it does the job, it's not the same one I use but maybe this would work : https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/ikea-365-lid-round-bamboo-60381898/ - or the silicone version as it looks like it's flat.
  14. Hi @SkumaWaterI've been looking at changing my water solution for espresso recently, I currently use Brita filtered water for espresso (and tea/drinking water), I was looking at other filter options for coffee like peak water, BWT etc, but in the search for consistency, and keeping your coffee machine as scale free as possible, domestic filter jugs aren't ideal. I've considered an Osmio before but always ended up thinking bottled water is a more cost effective and fairly consistent solution as I really only drink one or two coffees a day, but I can't make peace with the amount of plastic bottles I'd use so stick with filters. Plus the Osmio would take a fair bit of counter space, which is at a premium, the Skuma does look smaller? Anyway I'd be keen to test the Skuma and provide feedback and would like to add my name to the list, but I'll add that there are definitely people in this thread that volunteered who are more active forum members than myself and therefore should probably be ahead of me in line, my feedback would be on usability, taste/extraction results with coffee, and replacing a filter jug/kettle solution with an RO/remineralising solution for drinking water, coffee, tea etc. Either way, good luck with bringing the Skuma to market!
  15. Thanks that makes sense as I suppose unscrewing the collar for a courser grind will have less friction than tightening it. The issue with this method is that I have to make such small adjustments, so let's say I want to fine up the grind a touch and need to move the collar a hair finer, backing off and then tightening again will probably give me unpredictable changes, I might land back where I was, or go too fine/course, as the adjustments are between notches on the collar so you can't really tell with your eye, if that makes sense. This is where I'm thinking some new burrs may make a difference to the amount of collar movement and it's resulting adjustment. I found this post on home barista where someone describes a similar issue and the consensus is worn burrs : https://www.home-barista.com/grinders/mazzer-super-jolly-grind-adjustment-range-t14813.html I think when I next change beans I'll give it another deep clean, inspect the springs, burrs etc and take the static screen off and see what difference it makes to retention, interested to try one of the mythos style clump crushers too and see the difference. Slightly annoying that I'd have to remove the official Mazzer solution and DIY one out of a coke can 😆 Out of interest, are you using the camera lens hood mod or something else? I've seen people using bellows like on this grinder...
  16. Thanks for your reply. When I aligned the burrs a while ago I stripped the grinder down and cleaned everything thoroughly, then greased the collar thread and that did free it up a bit, but it still wasn't what I would call consistently smooth or easy to make repeatable micro adjustments. I could give lip salve a go though, I'm using a food safe grease at the moment. The adjustment rod is fitted and I use that, however the springs being equal lengths is something I haven't checked, so I'll check that. By this do you mean physically pushing the collar downwards when adjusting? I will definitely be getting genuine mazzer burrs if I do replace. Regarding the static screen, I already get a fair bit of clumping and static, I was actually quite surprised how much this grinder clumps when I got it in comparison to the Gaggia MDF I had before. It's just something I've learned to live with as I do WDT anyway. So I've always thought removing the static screen might make this even worse, saying that it is something I haven't tried so I guess there's no harm giving it a go. I'm assuming you have a SJ, would you say that making micro adjustments on yours is smooth and you can make repeatably smooth fine movements with the collar? I've never used another SJ so I'm not sure what I should be expecting really. Also would you say making micro adjustments makes a difference to your shot time (for the same yield), or would you have to go say one notch on the collar to see a few seconds difference?
  17. I own a Super Jolly Electronic and I'm mostly pretty happy with the results in the cup, but there's a few things I'd like to improve workflow wise. Firstly, I've tried to look in these forums and online for a list of mods that can be done to the Super Jolly E, but most info I find is aimed at the doser / timer version. Does anyone know of a list of mods, or can advise on some must do mods, specifically for the Super Jolly E? In terms of how I work at the moment, I really only pull one or two shots a day (depending on if I need to re dial my beans in). I've removed the hopper and fitted a camera lens hood with a lid, but I find single dosing doesn't work well due to retention and popcorning. I keep the metal chamber above the burrs filled with beans spilling over in to the lens hood which is probably somewhere around 60g of beans, the lens hood mod does help with retention, but it definitely doesn't clear all the coffee in the shoot, I feel like it needs more force. The antistatic screen could also be playing a role here, but I've read mixed things on removing/modding it. I'm wondering if anyone has found a better mod than the lens hood, or some bellows similar to the solo grinder that fit? I see Daniel Wong is actually launching something in September like this, he's calling it the push-blow hopper https://home-doserless.com/ The other thing I'd like to improve is making micro adjustments as easy as possible, I have cleaned the grinder and greased the collar recently, but I still find making micro adjustments clunky, the collar adjustment is not smooth, rather adjustments are kind of jerky due to the friction, and so the degree to which the collar moves and adjusts the grind is not really repeatable or consistent if that makes sense? On that note, I find sometimes adjusting the collar just a fraction can have as much as 10 seconds difference on my shot time for the same yield, or conversely sometimes the same degree of adjustment makes no difference at all, I have read elsewhere this can be a symptom of worn burrs, and although last time I checked they looked fine to me, perhaps they're not and it's time for some new ones, any advice on this would be much appreciated because this makes dialling in very frustrating! FYI I have aligned the burrs as per Matt Perger's method.
  18. Exactly, I read online that a lot of the fake SSR circuits are not actually designed to handle the current they say they're rated for, plus I wouldn't trust the components/circuit design in a counterfeit unit. Not worth the risk. Are you saying you have a thermal fuse to protect the boiler in case the steam SSR fails and overheats the boiler? The Gaggia classic has a thermal fuse, so in theory is protected from the boiler overheating, although I think it's cut out temp is 184C and I wouldn't like to see what happens if it gets that hot, but you are right any SSR can fail, the genuine Fotek SSRs are reliable though where as a fake SSR with potentially inferior components and poorly designed circuitry is a concern for many reasons.
  19. Just a quick heads up for PID owners, the steam SSR (SSR-40AA), part of my Mr Shades PID kit on my Gaggia Classic packed up recently. Shades of coffee are taking a break for a few weeks at the moment so I sourced a replacement from eBay, what was listed was exactly the same as the Fotek SSR-40AA that comes in the PID kit, what was delivered was a fake SSR branded "Fofek" which was made in China not Taiwan, and was missing the UL recognized component mark (ЯU). I googled it and it seems this is a common occurrence on eBay, Amazon etc. I've attached an image of the original and fake side by side for reference (fake is on the right). I installed it to see if it works, which it does, but it produced some fizzing noises when powered on, I'm definitely not taking a chance on this so I've removed it and I'll be getting a new SSR from Shades Of Coffee once @MrShadesis back up and running, I'm just changing the brew temp to steam now which works ok but is slower and a bit more cumbersome. So just a heads up really if anyone is in the same situation, or is tempted to save a few quid getting one from eBay, don't bother!
  20. Interested in one these when you're back up and running @Mudlark13, have sent you a DM.
  21. Hi all apologies for the delay on this, I have the gauge still, unfortunately I’ve had to unexpectedly travel away from home for around a week, I’ll be back next Wednesday so will post it off to @GrowlingDog next Thursday first thing.
  22. I can confirm I've received the pressure gauge in the week from @MrLatte, I will be doing the mod this week and sending on to @GrowlingDog after. Will PM when done @GrowlingDog but feel free to send over your address in the meantime.
  23. Thanks, I've browsed the two in this section of the forum, they're from 2014/15 though (plus the upgraditus image is broken) and I thought there may be some newer machines released since that could be relevant? If I've missed any other stickies though please do point me to them.
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