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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Welcome to the forum! I'll avoid pointing to the elephant in the room...
  2. 4 points
  3. 2 points
    I have a set of 24" stilsons, would these do you think OR you could beat it into submission
  4. 2 points
    Just to clarify and remain in line with Forum rules, there was no negotiation on price, I offered to buy at the asking price. It's a bargain already so any lower offer would have been cheeky on my part. Now just the small matter of a 1200 mile round trip to collect...
  5. 2 points
    Just to add....when doing portafilter conversions, whatever the material, just go slow and steady. When I convert the sage stuff I stick to 80-90rpm. It’s 5mm thick stainless so it takes a while. Plated brass is waaay easier [emoji4][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. 2 points
    Another day, more stuff done. The frame is completely stripped except for the front panel and skirt panel. I will likely need to drill out the rivets holding them in place to address the rust in the back of the frame. The boiler is still soaking away in its bucket. The burner was held in by two small metal flaps bent into the frame (burner is upside down to show this). I am likely not going to use it but I will still clean it up. The drain was not original, and instead an interesting custom box fitted to the machine. Most pipes are cleaned up after a day of hot citric acid followed by some polishing. I kept the pipes that were plated in original condition, but I noted the caps are a different material than brass. For comparison I took off the upper groups of the President to see how good (or bad) condition they were compared to the Zodiaco. I will tell you it took much more effort to get the pistons out of the sleeve. There was some corrosion or build up of crud that caused this, and the shutoff valve/flow control are completely stuck at room temperature, so I will eventually need to buy something with more heat than my current heat gun. I also found out the date of the machine, May of 1977 (text on flange says 220V 2600W B 5 77), stamped onto the heating element. At least this is the age of the element. It is a little strange if the machine is this old as this would mean the Zodiaco was made before my Gaggia Tell, which has a lower ANCC number than the Zodiaco (1,107,459 versus 1,119,077). Common sense would dictate the Gaggia should have a lower number but so far this says otherwise. I guess the other possibility is this is the part number for the element but I cannot confirm. I am quite happy I found a shelving unit in the basement. I would have run out of space otherwise to put stuff on!
  7. 2 points
    Then all that's left is for the glamour shots after a quick reminder of how far we have come
  8. 1 point
    Hi all, just putting a feeler out. I enjoy designing/making equipment, and this is a fully disassemblable ‘Aeropress‘, manually machined from solid billet 7000 aluminium with a stainless filter, and uses 64mm paper filters (aeropress standard). It is the only one of its kind and i’m pretty proud of it, it looks sweet and makes a lovely brew! It features a drain plug so the coffee can steep without dripping. As it’s a one-off, and was fully hand made by myself, I’m asking for £159, posted. See images below. Thanks.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Haha cheers will go with the light approach first before I open the bottom draw in the tool chest. Cheers for the offer
  11. 1 point
    Grinder now sold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    Smash a torx into the remaining boiler bolt, that should grip it and then remove it. I've probably got a spare group head if you get stuck ?
  13. 1 point
    Put the directly opposite hex head bolt back in the boiler (with some lube) then follow the other's advice to remove the tight boiler bolt hex head. If the hex has been rounded off on the bolt, try a small pair of stilsons on the body of the bolt head if they will fit in the available space.
  14. 1 point
    You need a powerful torch for the bolts, if you make them red, they will come off. I use а vise to grab the bolts afterwards.
  15. 1 point
    Apply the heat to the bolt head, boiler flange and corner of the brew head (away from the heating element) Also directly to the OPV stud. You will need to apply plenty of heat as the brass / ally will absorb a lot of heat. You can apply some penetrating fluid while HOT (but do it outside it stinks). Then try working the bolt /stud GENTLY backwards and forwards, applying more fluid as you do. If still no movement wrap some small pieces of rag around bolt and stud spray with P/fluid and leave to soak overnight or longer, reapplying fluid occaisionaly. If the worst happens they can be drilled out and retapped to the same size
  16. 1 point
    It would depend on what water you’re using with it. Ours scales the kettle in a week. I use a low dose of citric acid every 2 weeks to clean the kettle and the coffee machine
  17. 1 point
    @jimbojohn55 Absolutely superb Jim, a real pleasure to see the time, patience,care, dedication and skill that you have put into this project.
  18. 1 point
    @jimbojohn55 This is amazing, you did a great looking job! I swear you could start a YouTube channel for your next refurb if it is this involved. @coffeechap How is the coffee from it? Looks so shiny and immaculate I wouldn’t trust myself without using white gloves for the whole process ?
  19. 1 point
    ????? encore ???? Fab. U. Lous. What an absolute treat to see the journey, thank you very much ?
  20. 1 point
    If I could get this nearer I would of took it it's a bargain at £500
  21. 1 point
    Hi @joey24dirt. Only just seen this. I've had a measure up and it won't fit so will have to pass. Thank you for your patience. Good luck with the sale.
  22. 1 point
    Glad you’re enjoying the coffee you’re making Lam [emoji1303] I maybe would still keep an eye on shot time as if it starts to come down significantly you may want to grind a little finer to get the cup that you like. But certainly don’t use it as a be all and end all of a good shot [emoji1303] Anywhere in the low 20 seconds to mid 30 seconds should give you an optimal flavour [emoji1303]
  23. 1 point
    Morning all... I had been so focussed on all the variables I was forgetting about enjoying the coffee. I was using automation too readily (pressing the double shot button on the SDB as opposed using the manual button and controlling the extraction). This morning I am currently sitting down enjoying a very nice double shot Americano, 18g ground coffee into 37g coffee (I didn’t stop in time!!!). I couldn’t tell you what the shot time was as I simply didn’t look (this was rather liberating in itself!). I do know the pressure was bang on 9 bar. The devil is in the detail and he certainly got to me yesterday. I am ever so grateful to you for your guidance and keeping me sane. I can now see the importance of scales and have a new determination to finally get this right!
  24. 1 point
    Got a large solenoid if you need one @robti?
  25. 1 point
    You keep your batteries longer than I keep my cars. I’ve had 4 cars in that period. (You are the sensible one!)
  26. 1 point
    you guys are indeed right, i am the owner of Darkroom Espresso, when i wrote that comment years ago i was just a good friend of Jacky and Andy and a regular customer. Sadly alot of stuff happened and they sold to a couple of guys from Oxford. i worked for them for 3 and a bit years and then a opportunity came up to buy the assets so i have been the owner since about March. nice to meet you all. I am always on shift as i am the only one that open and closes the shop so if you come in please introduce yourself.
  27. 1 point
    How long did that take for 400ml. Only asking as when your older you check if you have enough time to run that amount of water ?
  28. 1 point
    So at this point after some careful reassembly of the case and chrome-work all it needed was a crown - or 5mm thick Perspex surround to the cup warmer - bit tricky, but needed a wooden former, then several careful applications of a heat gun in the right places to make it just the right shape - £25 a piece so you don't want to mess it up
  29. 1 point
    Finaly on the group it was a question of refitting the shower screen, I noticed on disassembly that the two brass spacers that fit behind the screen were missing, these are essential to enable the pre infusion valve in the centre of the piston to open fully, so I nocked up a couple - my "preciouses"
  30. 1 point
    Easier to see it in action, with a layer of protective wood dust ?
  31. 1 point
    The beauty of this group is the lever cocking mechanism, a bit like a flintlock
  32. 1 point
    The top group dome was reassembled after the bearings were cleaned and repacked, carefully drifted back into position, insert the crank spindle then the bearing onto the other end and pop on the end caps.
  33. 1 point
    It looks like the DTP is the same as the Barista Express. I asked Joey what he read of a gauge on the DTP but no reply other than earlier on that there wasn't really any scope for setting it higher. I do know why he might want to do that, more later. The OPV on the BE opens at circa 15 bar. It's a little past the blue sector on the gauge. The manuals seem to have lost contact with the designer. The blue sector is the optimum range and personally I didn't have much luck tuning where Sage manuals suggest the needle should go. In some cases that would result in no pressure being generated during infusion so to achieve some the pressure has to go higher. It relates to the bean that is being used. Lower than they suggest might even be better in some cases not that I found any. I had a problem with my BE grinder that people shouldn't worry about but did talk to Sage about it. It wouldn't adjust finer below a setting that it once did and I mentioned that I often brewed with the needle right up the scale. They said it usually trickles out then, Using it up their does take rather careful adjustment that might even involve very small grinds dose changes. This probably why the suggest staying out of this area. It's tricky. There is another reason as well on the BE and surprisingly on the DB as well. Both have flow meters. These are located before the OPV valve and wont work accurately when the flow gets too high. It will if the OPV opens too much. The flow meters would cost a lot more if they had to take brew pressure so they fit them on the outlet from the water tank even before the pump. They design on the basis that when brewing the opv on both machines wont open at all so that they can be accurate when brewing volumetrically. That can be turned off on the DB where the OPV should be set at 10bar. Many reduce it to 8 even though pundits say vibratory pumps should be set at 9. Rotary 8. The pressure build characteristics are different anyway. It's much easier to get preinfusion with vibratory pump and some machines have pressure profiling. Using 15bar is a little like all of this. None of them will prevent people from making good coffee. If some one changes machine and wants the same taste as they had before they are likely to need to change something. They might get a better drink but if they had changed something on the earlier machine it might even have produced the same drink. The DB dumps opv water directly into the water tank. The DTP and BE dump it into the drip tray. Too much that way will fill it up rather quickly. On the BE it will mess up it's programmable shot feature. I used that a lot once I found out how to use the machine. All 15bar brewing mainly means is that less coffee can be used. It's not something to worry about. Taste can still be changed in the usual way. I'd suspect many dtp users are brewing at 15bar with lots going into the drip tray. It's the direction to go for stronger coffee as finer grinds can be used. John -
  34. 1 point
    I’m on a Motorhome forum and have been on some time. General consensus is that Varta and Bosch are excellent. Both made by Johnson Controls. Branded differently they are identical, with Varta being slightly cheaper. Their internal configuration, a grid plate system, is reckoned to be streets ahead of conventional batteries. Yausa also have a very good battery. Exide are nothing special. Trading on a once famous name,-like Lucas But remember, if a battery has been on the shelf for a while it starts to deteriorate. Always buy from a dealer or firm that has a high throughput. Cheaper batteries are not worth having. Ask about the manufacture date. If they can’t tell you, don’t deal with them. You guys ‘darn sarff’ are in a prime position for mail order. Even here in North West Scotland I’ve had batteries delivered, albeit for a premium carriage charge. Finally if any one is trying to squeeze the last drops out of a failing battery esp. in cold weather you will be putting a heavy strain on your alternator charging system which can lead to the alternator packing up. Far better to replace a relatively less expensive battery than a much more expensive alternator.
  35. 1 point
    Exide are good quality batteries. Is it petrol or diesel engine ? Do you intend to keep the car ? Personally I would go for the premium one .
  36. 1 point
    The premium one should be better as it has a longer guarantee. It also has a higher capacity (47 amp hour Vs 44 amp hour) which could come in handy.
  37. 1 point
    I wondered who had been raiding my store!!!!
  38. 1 point
    I'd disassemble and take a look! Likely needs a descale nonetheless [emoji4]
  39. 1 point
    +1 to that...absolutely agree! I remember using our outgoing knives (a cheap set which I was given as a present and which were used for over 10 years almost daily) to practice on when first acquiring the water stones. You-tube has some great videos showing the correct method but basically you put light pressure on the "away" stroke (ie not into the blade) and lighter pressure on the return stroke (ie from blade edge to blade back or spine) withe the blade at about a 45 degree angle horizontally and (for most kitchen use) at a 20 degree angle to the edge. It's getting that edge angle consistent which is the hard thing to do and where most mistakes (and ruined blades) are made. It takes muscle memory which can only come from practice, hence the importance of using a knife which is expendable to practice with. You can buy an angle guide (we had a Wusthoff one) which is a really helpful tool in establishing and memorising the 20 degree angle. Many Japanese blades are sharpened at 15 degrees, including single side edged blades. Whilst you can angle the thicker European blades at this angle it's generally not recommended because with softer steels the edge will more easily fold and require more maintenance plus for some uses (eg boning out meat) the 20 or 22 degree edge angles are more useful as well as more durable. Japanese blades tend not to be used much for chopping but are more a slicing edge and before taking the plunge on them it is worth remembering that many use fairly thin blade profiles and 15 degree angles not as suited to Western Kitchen uses as they are to fish and vegetable prep although there are obviously many that are specifically designed for tougher use, like their utility blades. Brands that don't cost much at all but use great steel, dead easy to sharpen include Victorinox, Eden and Opinal. The middle ground is where the real value is though, and these include Wusthoff, Ziwlling, some of the Kai and Pro-Cook knives (who in the UK commission some bigger names to make their range for them, offering really quite exceptional value compared with many). At the higher end of things you have the Yaxell Rans, Kai Shun and similar, plus many of the hand made blades. Damascus has become very fashionable, but a vast majority of steels with the label "Damascus" are more accurately described as folded layered steel knives. True Damascus blades are very rare, not found on mass produced utility knives anywhere and the steel is still hand processed using the very specific age old techniques and very specific metalurgy of the original Wootz steel folded layered blades. Originally the techniques and steel ores came from the Near East (from what became known as Wootz Steel) later introduced by the Arabs to Damascus (hence the regionalised description) but originally the steel and blades were found in parts of India and Sri Lanka. I like the quality found in many of the Japanese folded and layered steel blades, many exhibiting lovely patternation. The Japanese still produce some of finest steel for blade making today but boy, you pay a premium for it! Many chefs don't buy these for use in their day jobs for fear of theft, loss or damage. A few I've known have used Victorinox for their durability and ease of sharpening and if one goes missing or is damaged, it doesn't matter much. More expensive blades might make an appearance in smaller fancier restaurants, but most I suspect are bought by the well-off for home use. Check out what is on your local butchers or fishmongers' blocks when you next visit....pound to a penny there will be mainly utilitarian Victorinox or similar knives found there. A word of caution if buying into some of the more fashionable and expensive blades such as Global....some of these are very difficult indeed to sharpen. Many who buy Global knives (personally I'm not a fan) tend to send them off to be professionally re-edged. Their steel is super-hard (58 or more on the Rockwell scale, made from "Cromova 18" Chrome Vanadium stainless) and whilst it keeps an edge for a long time, resharpening takes a lot more effort than for softer steels. Wustoff and many European blades tend to be around the 55 Rockwell hardness range which has the benefit of taking a super keen edge but being far far easier to sharpen. These all tend to be Chrome Vanadium steels these days with other constituents, the main difference being the hardening and tempering process used to arrive at the desired hardness and durability for the end use of the knife. Sorry for the long post....knives and knife making has been a keen interest of mine for many years!
  40. 1 point
    It's a number of factors. Handle shape. Quality of materials. (Applies primarily to the blade steel but also handle). Quality of fit and finish. Blade geometry, shape etc. Balance. Above all, suitability for purpose - you want to make sure the knife you buy is appropriate for what you/ they want to use it for. Note that 'Japanese' knives may feature western blade shapes and/or Japanese handles. There are a myriad of traditional Japanese blade designs that have specific purposes in Japanese cuisine. Many of these are single-sided (especially sashimi knives like yanagiba or sujihiki) and are not ideal for normal western use. For general use, a gyuto (chef's knife), santoku (multi purpose), and a petty/office (small utility or paring use) are the main useful shapes to look for. A nakiri (vegetable knife) is also a good thing to have, but in many ways if you have a gyuto or santoku then a nakiri is not strictly necessary. Still I use mine a lot. Most of these are available with J or western handles. Personally I favour the feel (and aesthetic) of the eastern style. A lot of people rate 'Global' but their small tapered handles aren't for everyone, and to me they slightly miss the traditional J blacksmith look. Which of course is subjective and won't matter to some. Budget for a Japanese knife could be anywhere from say £75 to £1000+. Bigger knives unsurprisingly cost more than smaller ones in the same range, but some ranges are more expensive for a petty than the biggest in a 'lesser' range. Some cutlers only make a few shapes in each range. A reasonable gyuto of say 20-25cm with decent steel might cost £180 for example. There are a great many different steels to choose from. Some are rust resistant, but many (high carbon) are not and need plenty of care. There's VG10, SG2 powdered steel, Aogami (blue paper steel, named for the paper that particular steel is wrapped in at the foundry), Shirogami (white paper steel), and they often come in #1 or #2 depending on quality. There are many others besides - you'll have to do a bit of research. Typically, Japanese knives are thinner in the blade, and also harder and more brittle than German or other euro knives. Also, J knives are usually sharpened to 15° per edge, compared to 20° for western blades. A double-sided blade (desirable for general use) will therefore be a total angle of 30° compared to 40°+ on a European blade. This is also related to the thin blade width and hard but brittle construction. Japanese steels are often Rockwell (hardness) of around 63, compared to late 50s for Zwillings and Wusthofs (both respected European knives) They can be brought to incredible sharpness, but are often that much more difficult to sharpen. You can't use a normal 'steel' to correct an edge, as the blade is harder than the rod. To sharpen you need a set of water stones, or diamond or ceramic sharpening system, and can also polish the edge with a leather strop. ___ Eat, drink and be merry
  41. 1 point
    After many long arguments of "you're cluttering up my kitchen" and "that thing looks so ugly the old grinder was much smaller and nicer looking" I've managed to command some more space on the countertop for my Classic and recently acquired Super Jolly that I've refurbed, and is a massive improvement over my previous Smart Grinder Pro. The Classic cost me €130, Super Jolly was €120, so if we ignore the new burrs, gaskets, PID, IMS basket, naked pf, and the multiple tampers, scales incl brewista and all the various other bits and bobs it's a budget setup really ? Upgradeitis has ceased for a little bit now that I've upgraded grinders and fitted the Mr Shades PID to the classic, but my eyes keep wandering towards Lelit Mara's or another HX machine but I think I'll need to wait a while before that idea can even be put on the table ?
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