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    • I do find the SD stiff at the 1 and less mark. It also gets stiffer when it gets hot (maybe 2 or less). The main movement is fine. From my memory I would say the plate isn't a perfect fit, it seems to be at a slight angle. Checked through the cooling tray and it does seem to get fully closed (cannot see a light through it). 
    • I'm interested to know how they plan on getting the last of the grinds out. Their anti static grid acts as a bung (by design according to @Coff Hey) and mine won't budge without getting some air pushed through, with a camera lens hood in my case.  I really hope they've gone through the effort of designing an actual system instead of just tilting a mignon. The fact that they've added a hopper implies they don't expect you to use bellows imo.
    • My Sage DB replacement, a ECM mechanika slim 😀
    • I've been using Fracino baskets from more or less the day I bought the DB. Ridged so doesn't do the spring much good for ridgeless. With monsooned which is a very light bean I use 13 1/2g in their 12g. It's about as much as can be put in. The puck never sticks. I've used up to 15 or 16 of other beans but what ever I used seem to stick so tried using 17g in their 14g double. Taste wise 16g seems better. It will hold more than that. Then I tried the usual dose of monsooned in it. No problems other than switching tampers. It's a bit over 11mm down. I know that from my 58mm tamper. Nothing I have used so far, 3 different beans have stuck so suspect it's down to using a lower fill. I've not used the DB single but I do know people expect it to hold ~10 and find they can't tamp it. I used the BE single a lot with ~9g in it but found more than that is needed on the DB. Probably down to lower brewing pressures so tuning is different as well. I also have a Fracino single - I'd expect that to hold ~10. I have tried the 15g VST but didn't find any gain other than more inconsistent pores over monsooned in the 12g. I may try other weights but finer grinding gain etc afraid I didn't find so. Maybe I will with a larger dose.
    • Is the knob fully pushed in, the shaft of the knob must actually go inside the hole of the case, not level with it.  
    • ain this picture, it looks like the prototype is a Mignon Manuale with a swapped base to tilt the Mignon Manuale forward. Maybe Eureka might also add in a disc under the hopper to feed the beans at a consistent rate for more uniform grinding. Juat my thought.
    • My steam knob has just done the same thing! I’ve only had the machine 5 weeks and this morning I made a coffee, turned the steam on and it wouldn’t turn off. Perhaps it is a problem with the Elizabeth, has anyone else experienced it? The knob does feel rather flimsy compared to the rest of the machine. I’m contacting the retailer on Monday hopefully they will be able to sort it out for me although I’ll be sad to post it back for a repair as it makes great coffee 
    • For a machine off that age, you are looking at the £600 mark for something in mint condition.  £500 seems about right, but I’d expect the PID control box to come with it.  GLWTS. 
    • The cheapest option is likely to be a simple RO unit. I probably use more water than some at ~2L a day for coffee, most of it drunk.  It doesn't need much of an RO unit to meet that. Pumped needed - wouldn't have thought so. My tap water is ~100 ppm so makes more sense to own a machine that descales easily which wastes ~1L of water every now and again. Sage might have the indication to do it correct but setting for harder would still mean not very often. I tried to get some idea what the new Sage filter could do. Looks like up to 350ppm ok for 40L or 3 months but descaling still needed. They effectively say look for something else at 450ppm This range seems to be sold for use with espresso machines also everpure. Should be data some where. The company did produce one themselves but seem to have dropped it. https://www.eastmidlandswater.com/3m-aqua-pure-cuno-cs51-water-filter-cartridge/2667 Then there is this aspect that I have never managed to bottom out and left me wondering about pressure cooker, Quote from the web Since boiling removes the water's calcium content, the result is softer water. Boiling is a quick and cheap way to fix hard water for consumption purposes. However, it only addresses temporary hardness and not permanent hardness. The latter contains dissolved calcium sulfate that boiling will not remove. Might be worth trying if some one has rather hard water. Also this one - Forum bug, wont let me covert to italics as it did above. Calcium or magnesium bicarbonate dissolved in the water is known as temporary hardness since when the water is boiled it precipitates as calcium carbonate or magnesium in the pan or kettle. Calcium or magnesium sulphate in the water is unaffected by boiling.   Going back to ~70's some rather wealthy individuals ran espresso machines on distilled water. Mention on here some time ago and seems have gained some interest. I came across this too https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjl0ImP3rrwAhWLecAKHc7pBXY4ChAWMAF6BAgCEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mdpi.com%2F2073-4441%2F10%2F1%2F54%2Fpdf&usg=AOvVaw3Fym-1S8UTaLMym44Kvvpt
    • Just a practical note apart from having to cart all this around elsewhere - how often are you going to need to use this? You are going to have to do lots of markets (where power is not available) and sell lots of coffee to make it viable and cost effective. I'm no expert on this subject, but would it be best to hire such equipment or maybe hire a petrol generator for the day?  
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